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Chickens are often the first bird homesteaders will tackle before raising other livestock. They cite practical reasons: food, composting, and pest control. Since ducks are some of the smartest and hardiest, they debut on the farm after chickens. But before getting any birds, I’ll answer the question Can you mix ducks with chickens.
You can, in fact, raise chickens and ducks together. However, there are some slight differences with both kinds of birds. And, with careful consideration, you should have no problem mixing both. So, whether or not you’ve purchased any ducks, just continue reading.
Brooding Facts for Both Ducklings and Chicks
Recently I wrote an in-depth article explaining how to raise ducklings and chicks together. So I’m only going to list the main points.
Provide the same feed for both
Contrary to popular belief, you can give medicated feed to ducklings, as I explained a short while ago. But no matter what, by the 3rd week, make sure the protein is no more than 18%, or your ducklings will be at risk for something called Angel’s Wing. And provide niacin in the form of brewer’s yeast, so the ducklings can thrive. (This needs to be provided lifelong in the duck’s diet.)
Also, regular chick fountains and nipple waterers work well with ducklings. However, shallow pans for feed are ideal due to their bills.
Similar brooder temperature for both
There is only a 5° difference between both birds when starting the brooding process. Therefore, just observe them to see whether they are cold or hot. If they huddle together, they’re cold. And if they move as far away as they can from the heat, then they are hot. And adjust accordingly.
Clean brooder daily
Both ducklings (and ducks) drink as they eat to prevent choking. And this causes a big mess in the brooder that needs to be cleaned on a daily, sometimes several times a day, basis.
Harassment
Depending on the number and breed of chicks and ducklings you have, could determine who does the bullying and who gets bullied. In my experience, our chicks have always done the bullying until they were juveniles. But by then, the ducks were much larger, thus the roles were reversed.
It’s definitely simpler to raise chickens and ducks on their own. However, it’s not unrealistic to raise them together either.
Teenager Ducks and Chickens
At this stage of development, your ducks and chickens are going through puberty. You know, their voices crack and they look fugly. In addition, you might notice your ducks bullying the chickens they once hung out with. But by the time they’re all adults, this behavior generally stops.
The 3 ducks we recently raised with our juvenile chickens bullied their brooder buddies. And they even tried to bully one of our cats. But that only lasted until the 2 juvie drakes were sold to someone in need of them, so the lone female no longer feels the need to bully. Thus, it’s the other way around again. Plus, when we raised Squirt, the boss drake, he was raised alone by me. Therefore, he really didn’t bully anyone, and no one bullied him. I’m still constantly learning about ducks. And I know I don’t know all there is to know about them.
Advice for Smooth Desegregation
This picture shows ice in the pool; and that’s due to the triple digit heat lately.
Depending on the time of year and temperature will determine when you move your newbies outside. For instance, if it’s spring and still chilly out, then wait till the chicks are ~ 5-6 weeks old. However, if it’s summer and hot in the evenings, like it’s been lately, you don’t necessarily need a heat lamp. But still wait for the chicks to get to 5-6 weeks old for size. Then you need to
Check your coop space
Ducks need twice as much space as chickens do. And if your chickens use a ramp to get in the coop, you might need to come up with something so the ducks can get in too.
Also, ducks don’t use nesting boxes. Therefore, just put some straw on the floor of the coop, and they’re fine.
Circulate the air in the coop
You likely already have your coop well ventilated with your existing flock. However, since ducks emit ~ 90% moisture, there needs to be adequate circulation in the form of predator-proof windows and air exhaust vents on the roof.
Gradually mix your new ducks and chickens with the established flock
Put your juvenile mixed birds in a pen where they and your primary flock can see each other without aggression for a few days to a week.
Provide water
This source of water is different from the drinking water. Though you will see both the chickens and ducks drinking from it. But if you don’t provide this water source for the ducks to bathe and preen their feathers, they can develop wet feather.
Mixing Adult Ducks and Chickens
Up to this point I’ve covered the basics from brooding ducklings and chicks together to integrating the juveniles with the adults. From the time the ducks are adults, they no longer hang out with the chickens they were raised with. Unless they happen to be eating, sharing snacks, or drinking together. Or unless you have a species-confused duck, like me.
Now it’s time to go over some final important details.
Continue to supply the same type of feed for ALL backyard birds
Once the ducks and chickens you raised are adults, they can eat layer feed like everyone else. And continue adding 1 TBSP brewer’s yeast to 1 cup of feed.
Carry on with same feeders and waterers
Since your duck-raised chickens are used to eating out of a shallow pan, continue that with the newbies. However, with your established flock, you can try keeping the technique you’ve been using. Though, if they start eating the newbies’ food, you may need to just switch everyone to the new method. And the same goes for their waterers.
Provide a watering hole
This is one of the most important points, because ducks not only love water, they need it. And not just drinking water either. They need access to a source of water to swim and bathe in. But again, it doesn’t need to be custom. You can just purchase a kiddie pool, and they will be content.
Also, when ducks swim, they poo; and they drink from this water source as well. And the chickens might too. So it needs to be changed at least twice daily.
At about this point, you might be wondering if chickens will drown in the kiddie pool. And the answer is debatable. Sure, chickens can’t swim like ducks. Plus, their feathers aren’t waterproof, and they lack webbed feet. But since they don’t like water the way ducks do, they usually only approach the watering hole to drink. From the time we’ve had our ducks and kiddie pool, no chickens have drowned. Though chicks should definitely be monitored.
Can You Mix Roosters and Drakes
In this picture, it looks like the 2 males are sharing a moment.
Given both roosters and drakes can be territorial, it’s only natural to wonder if you can have both at the same time. I usually only keep 2 adult roosters at any time. And they’ve never had a problem with the drake, whichever one I had, even when it was the sex-crazed Kirishima.
But it’s true that drakes might try to mate with hens. And this is usually the case when there aren’t enough females for the drakes. Just as there is a proper ratio for hens to roosters, there’s a proper ratio for ducks to drakes. Proper in this sense maintains harmony in the flock.
Therefore, to prevent abuse to your hens and ducks, and any fighting between roosters and drakes, provide enough females for both. You will find various recommendations on this subject. But I advise you to err on the side of caution, especially regarding mating season and drakes. Each rooster needs ~ 10-12 hens, while drakes require ~ 3-6 ducks each. You know what they say? The more the merrier.
What About Flock Dynamics
Now that you’ve hypothetically (or realistically) integrated ducks into your flock, has the pecking order changed? Did you notice whether the ducklings, then juvenile ducks had a hierarchy remotely similar to the chickens?
Most duck lovers agree, me included, that ducks have a pecking order. Though it’s way laid back compared to chickens: they may chase, peck at (in their own way), or quack at someone. But usually the group doesn’t gang up on that someone, like chickens do.
In addition, the boss in each group is the male. But if there are 2 roosters, it is generally the senior rooster, unless he is weaker or has been challenged and fallen from grace. Drakes are different. The senior drake is more concerned with mating, from what I’ve observed, and so that influences most things. We had 2 juvenile drakes recently and Squirt ignored them; he’s only interested in the females. However, I’m happy to report, he hasn’t killed any ducks, unlike his predecessor. And the juvenile drakes, from what I observed, were just living life, being kids.
Also, my roosters stay away from Squirt, although I’m not sure why. But then, they stay away from the ducks altogether; almost pretend like they’re not there. On the other hand, Squirt will get in Megatron’s face and yell at him only when Bakugo is flirting with him. Thankfully they haven’t come to blows yet.
So, Can You Mix Ducks with Chickens
While raising chicks and ducklings together can be difficult, it’s not theoretical. Plus, they form a unit until they become adults. And at that time they tend to stay with their own kind. Once adults, they might ignore one another, but they don’t squabble or fight each other. Furthermore, males of both groups are boss of the yard. However, if there was ever any contest, the drake would be the clear winner. Though it’s the duck’s callous disregard of the pecking order that makes one think they don’t even have one. But they do, in their own duck-ish way.
I sincerely hope I’ve answered any questions you might have had about mixing ducks with chickens. Do you currently have any ducks? Or are you thinking about adding any? Your comments are appreciated.
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If you have a rooster and a mixed flock of chickens, then it’s possible you might someday get a hybrid. Not long ago I wrote a post mentioning that hybrid chickens were some of the best egg layers. However, they’re also great for beginners. But just what does hybrid chicken mean?
Since a breed is something that produces offspring with similar characteristics, there are no hybrid chicken breeds. That’s because hybrids don’t breed true, meaning the traits they were bred for won’t be passed down. Also, hybrids have been around for quite some time. Although, before they were given their current appellation, they were called crossbreed, or worse, mongrel.
Originally poultry farmers would cross 2 or more purebred chickens, resulting in a crossbreed. And those same farmers discovered that some of those mongrels laid more eggs. Or they were better suited for meat production. Then, in 1936, Henry Wallace created Hy-Line poultry genetics in Iowa.
The breeds usually used in crossbreeding are Rhode Island Red, Light Sussex, and Leghorns. While some of today’s hybrids can be composed of 3 or 4 breeds, sometimes the parents are also crossbred, going back generations. Thus a hybrid chicken may look slightly different from how it first began. Now it’s a well-oiled machine.
Digital Art of Chicken Punnett square, Courtesy of Sarah Smith.
Typical Traits of a Hybrid Chicken
The following list is characteristic when buying hybrids from hatcheries or farm stores. Most hybrids
mature fast
can be sex-linked, so you know you’re getting hens
and egg quality and quantity of most hybrids deteriorates after ~ 3 to 4 years
Examples of Hybrids
Meat hybrids
The companies that developed these birds initially used strains from birds like Cornish Game, Light Sussex, and White Plymouth Rocks.
Red Sex Link
As the name implies, these birds can be sexed at hatch. Which means, feather color determines the sex. Therefore, generally, males at hatch will have pale or white feathers. And females will have buff or red tinted feathers.
Furthermore, Red Sex Links are the result of crossing Rhode Island Red or New Hampshire Red roosters with White Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island White, Silver Laced Wyandotte, or Delaware hens.
Golden Comet
When crossing a RIR or New Hampshire Red rooster with a White Leghorn hen, the result is the Golden Comet, one example of a Red Sex Link.
Cinnamon Queen
Breeding a RIR rooster with a Rhode Island White hen produces the Cinnamon Queen. And this hybrid resembles the one above, another Red Sex Link.
Black Sex Link
Similar to the Red Sex Link is the Black Sex Link, because it is also sexed by the color of feathers at hatch. Male chicks at hatch will have a white spot on their heads, otherwise they’ll be black. And females will be all black.
Also, this chicken is the product of a Barred Rock hen crossed with a RIR or New Hampshire Red rooster.
Exceptions to Crossbreeding Mantra
However, there have been instances of crossbreeding at least 3 purebred chickens before and not getting a hybrid. Cream Legbar and Australorp are 2 examples that come to mind.
Around 1900, with the intent for better layers, Australorps were created by mixing Orpingtons with Minorcas, White Leghorns, and Langshans. Though Cream Legbars were developed after WWII. And the scientists involved with Cream Legbars wanted good egg layers that could also be auto-sexed. Thus, by crossing Brown Leghorns, Barred Rocks, and Araucanas, the result was the Cream Legbar.
But these two examples are considered breeds, not hybrids. And that’s because they produce offspring that share their traits. Therefore, it’s possible for you to dabble in chicken breeding, creating something unique as well. Although you would first need some breeds or pure breeds. Not hybrids, because that wouldn’t be something new.
Our Experiences with Hybrids
Some of you are familiar with how I got into chicken-keeping, so I’ll try to be quick. We were given our first chickens by someone who claimed they were Leghorns. But they were really broilers.
And once all of the broilers, except Natalie, were gone, it was apparently time for more chickens. My 2 youngest went to East Texas to visit their grandparents. However, while they were there, they picked up some chicks. For those wondering why I didn’t get any around me,
I looked into it briefly, however my youngest got attacked by a different neighbor’s dog when I went to discuss chickens and where they got theirs.
And my mother-in-law has been involved with chickens for over 15 years, maybe more. So I trust her judgment and where she’s gotten her birds.
So when my daughters returned from East Texas, they brought home 2 Silver-Laced Wyandotte chicks, 3 brown red Ameraucana chicks, and 2 Black Sex links.
Then, as we learned more about backyard chickens, we thought we would sell eggs. Hence, we purchased 6 more black sex link chicks, but this time, locally.
Since I don’t have a ton of experience with meat chickens, I won’t get into those. However, sex links don’t tend to lay beyond 3 years, from what I’ve seen. While some can have health issues, it’s not across the board. We still have Sunshine, who is 6 years old.
My Other Crossbreeding Examples: Cream Legbar Mix
Our original little flock of chickens.
During the time we had our Cream Legbar rooster and the remaining preliminary members of our little flock, we incubated some eggs only once. And the eggs which hatched with the best results were the Ameraucana chicken eggs. Since Ameraucana and Araucana chickens are related, it makes sense.
We have one hen that looks like a purebred Cream Legbar hen, though she isn’t. And we have another one that comes close, but she has a rose comb. Plus, we have one that’s shaped like a Cream Legbar, with the head tuft, and yet, she’s all black. She hatched last year, and is a cross of Megatron and one of the Cream Legbar crossbreeds. While the one with the rose comb lays brown eggs, the other two lay baby blue eggs. But I’m not claiming we created a new breed. Though it would be fascinating to find out if Sunday (the black one) has offspring similar to herself.
Traits from our Cream Legbar Crossbreeds:
This is Sunday, our Black Ameraucana/ Cream Legbar crossbreed.
They matured fast
The boys were crowing at 1 month old. And they were chasing the adult hens, trying to get a free ride. Not to mention, the girls were laying eggs no later than 4 months old.
Life expectancy similar to purebred chickens
We still have 3 of the first crossbred Cream Legbar hens we hatched. And they are ~6 years old.
Healthy
They have been healthy and still lay eggs today. Although I wouldn’t say that they lay an inordinate amount of eggs like typical hybrids.
Go broody
The first chicken we ever had go broody was Cody, one of our Cream Legbar/Ameraucana mixes. And Plo has been a repeat co-parent on a number of occasions. Additionally, Sunday has also gone broody.
Friendly and docile
Perhaps it’s since we’ve had these birds for so long that they’re friendly. I don’t know. But they’re calm and trusting around us.
Even though our original Cream Legbar crossbreeds resembled chipmunks, I couldn’t say whether they could be auto-sexed or not at the time. That’s because I was still a novice and wasn’t aware our rooster was even a Cream Legbar, or what auto-sexing meant. I thought the pattern on our chicks was a result of their mixed heritage.
Easter Eggers
Ameraucana, Maran, Hybrid, and Mallard eggs.
My initial reason for raising chickens changed from that of eggs to eggs. Instead of having chickens to sell or eat eggs, I now want chickens for esthetics: Of the birds and eggs. Therefore, that’s how I’m trying to manage my flock. Thus, I prefer Ameraucana and Maran chickens, since they complement each other. And if the birds crossbreed, they still make pretty birds. And they can be sexed, depending on the eggshells they hatch from.
But everything is a learning experience. And sometimes my husband likes to get involved and doesn’t pay attention to which eggs he takes to incubate. Hence there are more hybrids than before. And a lot more brown layers than before.
Since the barring gene is dominant, and we have a Black Ameraucana rooster, I can sex link the chicks that hatch from the Cuckoo Maran eggs.
Matured at a normal rate
Our Easter Eggers have all developed around 4-6 months. And sometimes that depends on whether we use a heat lamp the whole time. Because, if it’s warm enough, we don’t utilize one.
Broody
Similar to our Cream Legbar crossbreeds, we’ve had a few of our Easter Eggers go broody as well.
Flighty
Not only are they jumpy, but they fly over the fence for greener pastures, often endangering themselves. However, with a little time, food, and consistency, I’ve won them over.
And healthy
So far they have been healthy.
Summary
Hybrid chickens were initially created by chicken enthusiasts, like you and me. And the results were more eggs and better meat. But there is often conflicting information about hybrids. However they make wonderful backyard additions.
Have you had hybrid chickens? If so, which ones? Do you still have any?
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After having chickens for any length of time, it’s only natural to progress to another domestic bird. Moreover, it’s also reasonable to have questions about raising chicks and ducklings together. Unfortunately most websites discourage you from attempting it, saying there are too many differences. However raising both together isn’t impossible. And the two have more in common than not.
Most sites even claim you cannot incubate, hatch, and brood chicks and ducklings together. Although that is simply not true. It can be done, as others have done so. What’s more, I’ve also incubated, hatched and raised ducklings and chicks together a few times.
But it is a lot of work. Likewise you don’t have to raise them together. Unless you find yourself incubating some chicken eggs and end up getting some ducklings. In that case, you might want to read this.
Brooder Basics Between Ducklings and Chicks
Digital Art, Courtesy of Sarah Smith
Below you’ll find some key points when raising both ducklings and chicks together.
Feed is the same for both
First, you can feed either medicated or non-medicated chick starter to both birds, EXCEPT only give ducklings chick starter for 2-3 weeks. After that, switch to grower, unless your chick starter is only ~ 18% protein.
Yes, there used to be a time, long ago, when ducklings couldn’t have medicated feed. However that is no longer true. Read this article by the National Library of Medicine regarding the lack of adverse effects of medicated feed and ducks. Plus, it’s what I feed my ducklings, and they’ve never had a problem.
In addition to chick starter, you need to add niacin, because ducklings require 10mg of it to thrive and grow. And you can find it in brewer’s yeast. Just sprinkle ~ 1 TBSP per cup of feed. Further, it’s perfectly safe for chicks and chickens.
Feeders and fountains
Given the duck’s bill, provide chick starter in a shallow dish. Having water in a regular chick fountain works just fine. And Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine even found that nipple waterers worked ok.
Brooder temperature is similar for both
Managing the brooder temperature till both kinds of poultry are feathered out is comparable. Even though the beginning temperature for each is a 5° difference, it’s important to not lose sight of monitoring how the birds react to the temperature. If they huddle, they’re cold. But if they’re moving as far away from the heat source as possible, then they’re hot. It’s really quite simple to just watch them.
Clean brooder & change bedding daily
In order to prevent choking, ducklings (and ducks) drink water as they eat. And it’s this combo that creates a daily mess in the brooder. A big, wet, stinky mess, sometimes several times a day, that, unless cleaned up on a regular basis, could compromise the health of the chicks. And it’s this that I consider the biggest hurdle to raising ducklings and chicks together.
Bullying
Harassment by ducklings is another often mentioned reason not to raise chicks and ducklings together. Though, in my experience, chicks are just as likely to bully ducklings.
We have successfully brooded and thus, raised a few generations of chicks and ducklings together. And this is what seems to work for us. First, understand that the type of bird you raise more of usually has the advantage. So if you raise more chicks, they might dominate the ducklings, for a time. But if you raise more ducklings, then they might be the antagonizers.
Tips for Brooding Chicks and Ducklings Together
This is a picture of one of the ducklings we’ve raised with our chicks this year; they’re all juveniles now.
When we got our first ducklings, we started small: we only got 3. And since ducks are naturally bigger, we’ve kept our duckling and duck numbers small. Plus, we’ve incubated and hatched most of our own ducklings with our chicks. Also, given that ducklings take an extra week to incubate, the chicks have a week to get bigger and sturdier.
However, before jumping into raising babies together, decide first if you can commit the course. Especially due to the fourth item on the list: cleaning up the mess.
Then, if you are, resolve to
check your brooder
Ducklings need almost 179% more space than chicks. Though both their space requirements will double in a month. So make sure the brooder box will house them both comfortably, along with their feed and water.
either incubate or purchase chicks before any ducklings
Considering that ducklings are bigger than chicks, plan on having the chicks for ~ 5-7 days before the ducklings. This will help them gain a little weight and not be so wobbly before the newbies arrive.
have at least three times as many chicks as ducklings
By having more chicks than ducklings, this could make the chicks the aggressors. Although the ducklings will be able to handle it, because they’re bigger. Also, depending on the breed you pick out, will likely determine if the chicks will be aggressive. But this is true for ducklings as well. We have mostly Ameraucana chickens, while we have Pekin and Mallard ducks. And they’re all pretty laid back. Plus, once both hit the juvenile or teenage years, the roles reverse.
Additionally, never get a lone chick, chicken, duck, duckling, or any type of backyard bird. It will get bullied and most likely have a miserable life. Therefore, at least get 2 ducklings and 8 chicks, if you want to start small.
It certainly is easier to raise them separately. But it’s not impossible to do both together, especially if you follow these tips. And don’t forget to clean the brooder and change the bedding daily.
Juvenile Ducks and Chickens
You can’t see them all, but you should be able to see some chickens and ducks in this photo.
When raising ducklings with chicks, once they’re teenagers, they become a flock. They stay together, and feed and water together. I wouldn’t say that they’re buddies. But they consider themselves a unit of some sort.
At this stage, you continue to keep their grower feed the same, whatever you get. And continue supplying brewer’s yeast, as well as how you supply the feed and water.
Tips for Peaceful Integration
Before moving your juvenile ducks and chickens in with your existing flock, there are some things you’ll need to take care of, such as
make sure you have space
Despite the fact ducks can be housed in the same coop as chickens, they need twice as much space as the latter. So just be certain you have enough of it, but you don’t need to make or get anything extra for them. However, if your chickens use a ramp to get in at night, make sure it’s not too steep for the ducks.
In addition, ducks can’t roost. And they prefer sleeping out in the open. Therefore, it might be ideal for the ducks to nest in the run, away from roosting chickens.
have coop well ventilated
According to Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, ducks ingest and eliminate more h2o than chickens. And their poo is over 90% moisture. For that reason, the coop needs adequate ventilation. Again, nothing fancy: a couple of predator-proof windows and air exhaust vents on the roof.
slowly integrate ducks and chickens with the flock
Either when the juvenile birds are feathered out, or the ducks are 3-4 weeks old, it’s time to introduce the newbies to your existing flock. The ducks will nearly be adult size by then, but the juvenile chickens will still be small-ish. Though that’s ok, once again, depending on your breed(s) of chickens. Mine don’t bother the young ones until they look like adults. **If you live somewhere cold, just make sure the temperature is ~ 75°, since the ducks won’t be fully feathered at 3 weeks.
So put the newbies in a pen where the existing birds can observe them, as they please, for a few days. Then watch for any aggressive behavior as they mingle with limit. Usually there are some curious chickens or some looking for food. Otherwise they’re not too interested after the initial inspection.
Supply extra water
While the newbies are being gawked at by the establishment, have a source of water available for the ducks. But it can be as simple as a pan of water, depending on the number of ducks you have. However the important thing is that they can get in to clean and maintain their feathers. When everyone is finally incorporated together, you can get a kiddie pool.
In Summary
If you really want to raise chicks and ducklings together, it’s totally doable, since they can eat the same food, and eat and drink out of the same containers. You just have to add brewer’s yeast to their diet. Plus, they can be brooded similarly.
But the mess is real, and you have to be diligent to clean it daily. And there are definitely some breeds of ducks that are bullies. Therefore, if you’re still unsure, I recommend doing some more research, by clicking on any of the links highlighted in this post.
Do you have ducks, or do you want ducks? If you have them, what’s the easiest part of raising them? Your comments are appreciated.
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Possibly you’ve seen the memes related to backyard chicken owners, with laughable signs of poultry addiction. They’re pretty funny and can be spot on. We were like that in the beginning too: Buying chicks, adolescent hens and roos, and always keeping our eyes open for more. But how do you know when you have enough? Or is it something you should figure out in advance? Well, I’m going to help answer the question, how many chickens should I have?
Assuming you’re not a commercial chicken breeder, and you already have birds, you likely know the legal situation of owning them where you live, whether in the city or suburbs. I live in the country on only an acre. And there are no limits like they have in the cities.
But if you’re interested in getting into chicken-keeping and you live in the city, a lot of cities are now embracing raising chickens. However most don’t allow roosters due to crowing. Plus, there are limits to how many birds you can keep. So, if you live in an area with restrictions, that answers the question about the number of birds you can have.
Although, if you live on acreage, you have more freedom in the amount of birds you can own. In addition, it will affect whether or not you’ll keep roosters, because then it’s solely your decision. And since space won’t be an issue, collecting too many birds will be a temptation. Trust me.
How to Decide Chicken Numbers
Digital Art, Courtesy of Sarah Smith
Before answering our question, I’m going to present some facts that influence chicken-keeping. And, in effect, they will help determine how many birds you should have.
Decide the Amount of Birds Based on Purpose:
Layers
Or show chickens
So the first way to come up with how many chickens you should have, is knowing your reason for having them. Are you getting chickens to sell eggs? Or do you want show birds for competitions?
Solution to Choosing Birds Based on Purpose:
If you’re getting layers, settle on how many eggs you want a week. Also, do you have a family? And are you going to try to sell eggs? Some breeds produce more eggs, and some less.
However, if you’re only getting chickens for personal use, then starting out with 3 to 4 hens will yield ~ dozen eggs weekly.
Similarly, for show birds, think about how many birds you need to enter competitions. But if you’re new to showing chickens, starting out with 3 birds is fine, as long as they’re all hens.
Calculate how much space you have for any and all chickens
And if you already have a coop with run, then measure its dimensions to determine how many chickens you can fit in it
Most experts agree that eachchickenneeds~ 3 to 4 square feet in the coop. That’s where the hens lay eggs and the birds shelter at night. And if there are predators, your birds will go there to hide.
In addition, figure another 5-10 square feet per bird in the run. The purpose of the run is managed safety for the birds to get exercise and daylight. But it’s not ideal for chickens to stay in confined space. They do best when they can forage and have free access to the whole yard. However, if you decide to keep your birds confined all the time, then calculate at least 10 square feet per bird.
And for pasture-raised or free-range chickens, plan on at least 108 square feet per bird
If you choose to have pasture-raised chickens, account for predators. So you’ll need a fence with hardware cloth to keep your chickens in and predators out. Living where we do, on only 1 acre, we don’t have that many. But we have neighbors with 5 acres who suffer coyote attacks, as well as other predator depredations to their flocks.
Determine Amount of Birds by Cost:
Financial commitment
Initial expenses are higher the more birds you have: if you don’t have a coop, you either need to build one yourself. Or you’ll have to buy one, or hire someone to build one. Plus, your monthly expenses on feed and bedding will be more. We spend ~ $200 a month on feed. And you’ll have added vet bills with more chickens. Not to mention, if you have electricity to your coop, that’s another expense that’s increased the more birds you have.
Can be labor intensive
Regardless of who makes the coop, they need one. Besides that and as a result of them eating, chickens poop a lot. So the more you have, the more poop you’ll have to clean out of their coop and run. Even if you clean in the recommended way, if you have 30 birds, it’s still a lot of work. Although, if you have a tractor coop and run, cleaning it won’t be as much of an issue, as I bring up here.
My 20-year-old daughter thinks we have too many birds. But I’m not there yet. Yes, we have over 30 chickens and several chicks. But some of our birds are close to retirement age with signs of a decrease in egg production, which is why I have chicks now. I’m preparing for the future.
So, How Many Chickens Should I Have
From center going clockwise, Davis, Bumblecade, and Smiley.
To recap, if you live in the city or suburbs, check with your municipalities to find out their regulations. And that will give you the information you need. Though, if you live in the country, determining numbers really comes down to how many you can manage, financial and otherwise.
However, 3-5 hens is a great start to chicken-keeping no matter where you live. It’s kinda like just getting your feet wet. But the one hard and fast rule is that there has to be a ratio of no less than 10 hens to every rooster. Or else your hens will get abused by too much attention. I’ve seen it, and it isn’t pretty. Therefore, just make sure you get all girls.
If you have chickens already, how many do you have? And are you happy with that amount? Also, how did you decide on your chicken numbers? Your comments are appreciated.
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Last month several cities from Texas to California experienced triple digit temperatures. And the heat was made worse some places by humidity. Plus, due to La Niña, the heat’s to last for many areas. Further, we all know how important heat safety is for people. But what about animals? For instance, do you know how to take care of chickens in hot weather?
I’m sure everyone’s heard or read the story of the recent heat that killed the ~ 2000 head of Kansas cattle. Although cattle can sweat to some degree, chickens can’t. Therefore, they rely on us to make sure they don’t overheat.
Most poultry people say that chickens will pant in 80° weather. However I think that can depend on where you live. If you live further north, your birds will be used to temperatures there, not where I live. And vice versa. So you see, birds can acclimate to the weather.
For example, I have a flock comprised of mostly Ameraucana chickens, and they don’t start panting until the temperature gets to the 90s. However, the juvenile birds aren’t used to the temperatures. Thus, they look more bothered by the heat than the adults. Also, if the weather were to spike suddenly, then that could be an issue for all of them.
Additionally, chickens normally lose heat through their combs, wattles, and other non-feathered areas. But once the temperatures rise, heat loss changes to evaporative, which causes water loss. And a lot of water loss causes changes in electrolyte balance.
Signs of Light and Moderate Heat Stress
Chickens may pant, but otherwise still run around normal
And they may hold their wings away from their bodies
Solution for Light to Moderate Heat Stress
Provide fresh clean water in waterers
Add ice to water
Cool down the run with hose
And provide icy treats
Dangerous Signs of Heat Exhaustion
Sketch, Courtesy of Paul Smith
Panting heavily
Wings held away from body
Pale comb
Or lethargic, limp, or unconscious
Solution for Heat Exhaustion
If you have a chicken in the above conditions, act quickly, because they are in danger of dying. The most important thing is they need to be cooled quickly.
Submerge them (to their necks) in cool water, NOT ice water.
And then move them indoors until they recover.
Also, provide them with electrolyte water in a medicine dropper, careful not to aspirate them.
Preventing Heat Stress and Exhaustion
It’s much easier to prevent a problem than trying to fix one when it occurs. Since we already know it’s going to be a hot summer, especially in the Midwest, let’s plan on an ounce of prevention.
Shade
Trees in the yard
This is more of a longterm project. But when we moved into our house over 7 years ago, there were only 2 decent sized trees and a few small trees. Since living here, we’ve added several fruit trees and pruned the others. Now the birds have a choice of where to sit in the heat of the day.
Tarps or cloths on the run
If your run doesn’t have a roof, or it gets full sun, then add some type of shade for your birds.
Cooling Down the Coop and Run
Misters
For evaporative cooling, this is an inexpensive solution. However, if, like us, you have well water, then you’d have to add a salt system to your outside water. Then that would require a whole-house water filtration system. And it could be cost prohibitive. So…
Hose the run
Spray down the dirt in the run with the trusty hose. So long as you don’t make it muddy, it will cool it down for the birds. You can also spray the outside of the coop for added benefit.
Ventilation
Likely your run will have enough ventilation. But coops are usually smaller. So install
And if you have electricity to your coop, then add a fan for increased circulation. But be sure it and any cords are out of the birds’ reach.
Water
Provide multiple sources of fresh, clean, cool water
Locate them ideally in shady spots
When it starts heating up, add ice, ice blocks, or frozen water bottles to cool the water
Also, you can add electrolyte solution to the water
And since chickens won’t get in a kiddie pool, provide shallow pans of water for them to wade in
Feed
Given that digestion increases body temperature, birds won’t eat as much during hot weather. And you may notice egg production decrease as well. Therefore,
Feed your birds early morning or later in the day when it’s not as hot
Limit scratch
And provide frozen treats
Suggestions for Frozen Treats
Freeze 2 halves of a watermelon; then put them in the shade for your chickens to nibble on. It provides them with cool, refreshing water and ice. And it keeps them cool.
With 2 cans of whole kernel corn, fill each cup of a 12-cup muffin tin ~1/2 to 3/4 full and freeze. Then serve to your chickens in the shade.
Chicken Ice Cream
1-2 c of plain non-fat Greek yogurt
1 frozen banana, thawed slightly; then sliced
2 c frozen blueberries
In a large plate or medium bowl, mix all of the ingredients together. Then serve to your birds in the shade.
I have been making the above treats for my chickens since we started our real flock. And at first, they would react strongly to the frozen blueberries. However, now they’re all very used to them and welcome the cold treats. Plus, it’s funny to see them get brain freeze. They just shake it off and grab some more.
With the heat we’ve had, and are expected to have this summer, I have a list of things I’d like for our birds. Space is already at a maximum, so I want to increase the size of our coop, to make room for the newbies. Some of our hens and our senior rooster are in their older years. No telling how much longer they’ll be around.
Also, my husband needs to cut out a couple decent sized windows on their coop for air flow; then predator-proof them. And I would love to get an automatic waterer for them. But the only source of water is on the opposite end of our acre. We built their coop where there is more shade. So in order to supply them with an automatic waterer, we’d have to dig a trench and add pipe. My husband is going to look into it. With the amount of birds we have, it’s definitely worth it to me.
What do you do for your birds when it’s hot? Have you ever had one suffer heat exhaustion? What did you do? Your comments are appreciated.
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We spend a lot on our pets. Not just in money, but also in time. Americans reportedly spend ~$2300 annually just on their cats and dogs alone. And that doesn’t even take into account chicken, rabbit, and reptile lovers. But there are more signs you’re a crazy pet parent than spending money on your pet.
While there are plenty of “crazy lady” memes, I use the term crazy a bit more endearing. Additionally, I don’t single out just women, because I’ve found that men can be just as fond of their pets. However, what does “pet parent” even mean?
The term pet parent is considered by some people concerned with the rights of animals to be more acceptable than owner .
Collins English Dictionary
But it’s really just someone who looks after and cares for their pet.
Now I’ve broken this up into three sections. And the first set of signs you’re a crazy pet parent that we’re going to examine is the cat lover. Cats are mysterious. And they can be elusive or playful. Maybe you’re guilty of being crazy for cats. Or you know someone who’s heading down that path? Just continue reading to find out.
Signs You’re a Crazy Pet Parent: for Cats
This is Meow Meow, when she still lived in the house and there was only Moses to deal with. She liked to sleep on me.
You might be a crazy cat person if you
hardly goon vacation, because…what would happen to your cats?
mayeven read fiction books about cats with your kids
talk to your cats, and reply to them when they meow
have more than a couple of cats
gladly make room for your cat to be comfortable on your bed; BUT if some human tries the same, you push back
buy your cats presents
don’t get mad if your cat steps on your laptop keyboard, because she wanted to be near you and get your attention; however, now you just anticipate her and close your laptop to prevent any mess-ups
sleep with cat food on the nightstand so the kitty knows where it is; cats are creatures of habit, right?
don’t mind if the cat scratches the furniture
get them special treats
havecat themeditems
FaceTime your cat in the event you’re ever away
celebrate your cat’s birthday
sing to your cat or make up songs about your cat
and if your cat takes your chair when you vacate it, it’s ok; you just take another one and move all of your stuff over
The second set of signs you’re a crazy pet parent that we’re going to investigate is the chicken lover. Chicken popularity has been going strong since Covid. So that means more crazy chicken parents. And the newer parents you are, the crazier you are. Trust me, I know. But that doesn’t mean that old chicken parents stop being crazy for their backyard birds. We just share our joys with fellow crazies.
Signs You’re a Crazy Chicken Parent
You might be a crazy chicken person if you
talk to your chickens
don’t run the chickens out of the garden even if you’re spouse tells you to
make special treatsfor them
cook oatmeal for your family; and then make extra for your chickens, because they love it
thank the chickens after they eat the treats
name all of your chickens
have chicken t-shirts and wear them proudly
read chicken blogs
have chicken themed items in and out of your house
save food for your birds, and ask others to do so as well
encourage the rooster; and believe that he actually listens
are happier seeing and watching your chickens than TV; and they think you’re pretty darn special too
talk about your chickens to anyone who will listen, but you’re starting to notice their eyes glaze over
might have even let a weak baby chick sleep in your bed, snuggled in a hand towel
and when you go outside, your backyard birds flock to you
Finally, the last signs that you’re a crazy pet parent we’re going to consider is the dog lover. Dogs have been man’s best friend since, what seems, the beginning of time. They’re faithful, loving, and trustworthy. What’s not to like?
leave TV or music on for your dog when you’re ever away
buy your dog toys
flavor your dog’s food, because they don’t like plain dog food
take your dog on outings
let your dog sleep on your bed, even if they take up most of the bed
spell words out so your dog won’t understand
don’t mind dog hair on your clothes, furniture, or the occasional fur in your food
baby-talk to your dog, no matter their age
love giving your dog belly rubs, and your dog loves it too
let your dog chew on you, because it’s how they say, “I love you”
have birthday parties for your dog
usually don’t go out of town for long, or go far
ignore anything your dog does that could be construed as badbehavior, because you love your dog; and “they’re such a good dog,” you say in the baby voice
and if you’ve ever stayed at a non dog-friendly hotel before, you might’ve snuck your dog in. Don’t worry. I won’t tell, if you won’t
There are some common traits all of these pet parents have in common that I have yet to list. Therefore, if you have cats, dogs, and chickens, please keep reading.
On occasion, you’ve been known to spend more on pet food, bedding, litter, etc, than on your own groceries.
Furthermore, you have more pictures of your pets than your children.
And you talk more about your pets than your kids. In addition, you’re more animated when you share about your pets.
Additionally, you post more on social media regarding your pets.
Also, going out of town for any type of vacation is difficult, because of all of your pets. So you don’t even know what a vacation is anymore. But it’s worth it, because who will love your pets like you do?
And you admit that the word “fret” is in your vocabulary regarding your pets occasionally.
Finally, you might be a crazy pet parent if your neighbors are constantly trying to bring you strays.
Conclusion
This concludes the signs you’re a crazy pet parent. And I confess that I’m guilty of 98% of them. But it’s ok, because I love my pets. And if it turns out that you’re a crazy pet parent, it’s perfectly ok. Because, you’re accepted.
Also, I’m going on vacation next week for 10 days. So I might not post. We haven’t had a real vacation in 4 years. But back then we didn’t have the extra cats and our dog that we have now. We had Moses, but he was allowed to come on vacation with us then.
In addition, the place where we’re going now is not pet-friendly. Although, that hardly matters, because Sophie would need tranquilizers to go on vacation. Anyway, this will be the first time that we left Sophie and Poppy for an extended time. So we have some anxiety about that. Therefore, if you think of it, please pray for our pets and neighbors. We have a lot of pets. Over 30, and some chicks that we’ll eventually sell. Thus, it’s a huge responsibility, however we have great neighbors.
Are you a fellow crazy pet parent? Do you struggle with going out of town because of your fur or feather babies? Or do you have awesome neighbors who help you out? Let me know how you handle these issues in a comment. And thanks for taking the time to read this post. Also, if you enjoyed this piece, please like, and follow for more.
We often trade nice spring temperatures for severe spring storms. And for broody hens and their chicks outside, it can be a dangerous time. Because, if a chick gets wet, it can suffer hypothermia. Therefore, you need to know how to revive a baby chick.
If you have chickens for any number of years, you’ll see many things. And sometimes it can be all at once. Like broody hens, chicks, illnesses, near death, and even revival from death.
For example, we have 4 broody hens with only 2 hatched chicks right now. And that’s not including the chicks we incubated and hatched recently. Well, the last set of thunderstorms we had flooded an area near the back of our coop. And for some reason, one broody hen and her chick stayed out in the rain. So, when we went to check on the birds, it was lifeless. Or it appeared that way.
Thus, I’m going to cover different methods to revive baby chicks, since you might find chicks at various stages of weakness.
How to Revive a Baby Chick:
Weak and Dehydrated Chicks
The first time you might need to revive a baby chick is if you order chicks from a hatchery. That’s because the nature of shipping chicks includes lack of temperature control and long shipping times. And the lack of temperature control raises a chick’s body temperature, causing it to pant, thereby resulting in dehydration.
Signs of a Weak and Dehydrated Chick
Difficulty breathing, such as panting
Isolation
Sleepiness
And refusal to eat and drink
The first thing to do when you get mail order chicks is put them in the brooder that you prepared ahead of time. Next, provide lukewarm water, because they had a long trip. You don’t want to give them cold water, since it could shock their systems. And as they’re getting settled, do an assessment on them. Do they look healthy? Are any of them showing symptoms listed above?
Solution for Weak and Dehydrated Chicks
In the event you have a weak and/or dehydrated chick, do the following:
Remove the chick from the brooder, and wrap it in a hand towel
Next, provide electrolytes; you can give this to all of the chicks
If the chick is too weak to drink on its own, assist it every ~ 10-15 minutes for an hour. (You’ll know a chick is drinking when it tips its head and smacks its beak. Don’t force anything down its beak; it can go into the lungs and cause more issues.) Then, steadily extend the time between assisted waterings. And keep it away from direct heat, since this could keep it dehydrated. However, keep it warm in a hand towel.
In addition, after ~ 2 days, you can give a chick some egg yolk
Chicks who were simply chilled should rebound within an hour
How to Revive a Baby Chick:
This is the day after the storm. And you can see the small one is just fine.
Wet and Hypothermic Chicks
If you incubate and raise your own chicks, it’s possible you won’t ever have to revive a wet and hypothermic chick. Although, if you have chickens that tend to go broody, that’s another story. Especially with spring weather and the threat of flooding.
But spring weather isn’t the only cause for concern. Sprinkler systems and chicks falling into waterers can also cause baby chicks to quickly fall prey to hypothermia.
Signs of Wet and Hypothermic Chicks
Your first sign you have a wet and hypothermic chick is that the chick is wet; it’s pretty obvious. And the other sign is that it might look dead. It may even flop lifelessly, when you pick it up, but all is not lost, if you’re quick. And you don’t give up.
Solution for Wet and Hypothermic Chicks
First, bring the chick inside
Next, gently dry it with a towel to get rid of the extra moisture
Then, blow dry the chick on the lowest setting; but holding it, making sure the air isn’t too hot to burn the chick
Some sites recommend putting the chick straight under a heat lamp after this. However, I think it should depend upon the severity of the symptoms. If your chick was conscious when you found it, then after it’s dry, put it under a heat lamp. But, if your chick was unresponsive, then it will take you a while to get it to waken. It will be weak and tired, although persevere, so it doesn’t die.
When we rescued the chick, the momma hen was so distraught; it was storming, and we took her baby away. So after we revived her chick, and it was in the clear, we brought the momma hen inside. (We didn’t want to risk putting the baby back out in the wet and cold. And we didn’t want the momma hen to needlessly suffer.) Then, after getting it situated and set-up, we put both of them in a dog crate. Just looking at the chick the next day, you couldn’t tell it had almost died.
Have you ever had to revive a baby chick? Or did a baby chick ever get caught in the rain or waterer?
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Not long ago I wrote an article about the best chickens for laying eggs. And the past few posts have been on chicks. But if you’re interested in backyard birds and aren’t too concerned about eggs or meat, then I’ll tell you the best chickens for beginners.
You’ll still have to take where you live into consideration. That’s because it will affect the birds you choose. Therefore, if you a pick a breed that has a large comb and wattles, living in a warmer climate will be ideal. Likewise, if you live in the Northern Hemisphere, then picking ones with smaller combs would be better.
Further, some of these chickens were mentioned before as excellent egg layers. But all of the ones on today’s list, including the previously mentioned ones, are easy going, simple to care for, and for newbie chicken owners.
Best Chickens for Beginners: Ameraucana
Ameraucanas are my personal favorite backyard bird. I have black, brown red, and bryngyld varieties. Though, as far as I know, the bryngyld variety hasn’t been approved by the APA. And if hand-raised from chicks, they never forget you. But, even if they weren’t raised from chicks, they learn and adapt quickly. Also, they come in beautiful colors. In addition, they are
Dual purpose
Lay ~ 200 blue eggs per year
Friendly
Not generally broody if you get them from a hatchery; although I had one brown red one who did go broody; and the one Black Ameraucana chick she raised goes broody annually
Have a pea comb, so they do better in winters and in cool climates
Best Birds for Beginners: Australorp
Come in 3 varieties
Also dual purpose
Lay ~ 300 light brown eggs annually
Friendly birds
Can go broody, so if you want chicks, this is the best brooder
Have a single comb, so better suited for warm climates
Best Chickens for Beginners: Barred Plymouth Rock
Dual purpose
Tame and good with children
Lay ~ 200 light brown eggs each year
Can go broody
Also have a single comb, so they do better in warm climates
Best Birds for Beginners: Brahma
Gentle giants, came from China
Dual purpose–used to be what we ate before the modern broiler
Very well suited to Northern climate with the pea comb
Stands confinement well
Can go broody
Comes in 3 varieties
Lays ~ 150 medium brown eggs annually, producing most during the winter
And has a single comb, so warm weather is more suitable
In Summary
So you see there are a number of backyard birds that would be great for first time chicken keepers. Additionally, most of them still produce a lot of eggs. And they’re friendly. Some even look and act like they could be lap pets.
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Whether you just started raising chicks, or have been for many years, it’s possible you’ve seen some common chick problems. Especially if you had or have a large brood. And similar to adult birds, there are some issues they’re prone to when they’re very young. However, most are preventable. Therefore, with the proper care and attention, they should be ok.
Common Chick Problems: Dehydration
One of the most common issues day-old chicks can suffer is dehydration. But it seems to be more prevalent in cases where chicks are shipped. And some people believe dehydration in day-old chicks occurs when their body temperature exceeds 104°; normal is 103°.
How to Prevent Dehydration
Make sure the temperature in the brooder is ideal: that all of the chicks are either moving around, eating, drinking, or sleeping. But not as far away from the heat source as possible, with their wings spread out, and panting.
Treating Dehydration
Signs you have a dehydrated chick:
Panting
Sleepiness
Isolation
Refusal to eat and drink
If you have a dehydrated chick, remove it from the heat, wrap it in a towel, and administer electrolytes, with a medicine dropper if necessary, one drop at a time.
Common Chick Problems: Pasty Butt
Another common condition in new chicks is pasty or sticky butt. Actually it goes by a few names. But it’s basically when chick poo sticks to their vents or bottoms. And it can be serious if left untreated, because it can clog them up.
Preventing Pasty Butt
Make sure the temperature of their water in the brooder is ~ 95-100°. Shipped chicks are more apt to be dehydrated and get chilled. So if their first drink is cool or cold, they’re also more likely to get pasty butt. Also, be sure they are drinking well before they start eating. Further, add 2 TBSP apple cider vinegar per quart of water for the chicks’ first week of life to minimize the risk of pasting.
In addition, keep proper brooder temperatures. In the first week, you want to start at 95°. And every week reduce the temperature by 5°. But the main thing is to observe the chicks’ behavior. If they’re happy and comfortable, they will sound happy and contented. However, if they’re uncomfortable, one way or another, they’ll let you know.
Treating Pasty Bottom
Also, if you have any chicks who currently have Pasty Butt, clean them up before it hardens. Run a light stream of warm water over their bottom. Next, carefully pick off the mess with your fingers. But be mindful not to tear out any down or rip the delicate skin. However, if the poo has already hardened, you may have to pick a little off at a time, intermittently adding warm water. And when you’re done, apply Vaseline to the chick’s bottom to keep the area from being irritated and to keep poop from sticking.
If you have any chicks with frequent Pasty Butt, it could be their diet. And you might have to switch their feed.
Common Chick Problems: Coccidiosis
Coccidia are a protozoan parasite that attack the intestinal tract. And Coccidiosis is a worldwide issue, affecting large and small flocks. Though, adult chickens usually have immunity to the ones in your own yard. Which means, baby chicks could be wiped out if they’re exposed to coccidia from your chickens or someone else’s, because immunity is a process.
Symptoms of Coccidiosis in chicks include listlessness, huddling, paleness, bloody or even foamy droppings, and comparatively smaller chicks if they’re all the same age.
To Prevent Coccidiosis
Either vaccinate day-old chicks or give them medicated feed, but don’t do both. Because, if you do both, it negates their effectiveness, and the chicks won’t be protected at all.
Keep brooders clean and dry.
Provide fresh, clean water daily.
Make sure there’s enough space for the chicks.
Provide enough ventilation to dry the litter/bedding material.
Encourage immunity by introducing chicks progressively to your existing flock by 4 weeks old.
Provide probiotics in chick water.
Quarantine new flock members for at least a week. And restrict access to your birds’ yard by other chicken farmers. Also, don’t share equipment.
And don’t toss food or treats on the ground, because it can get contaminated.
Treating Coccidiosis
Signs of coccidiosis in chicks are ruffled feathers, diarrhea that can be bloody, lack of appetite, sleepiness, and droopiness. So, if you have any chicks that you suspect have coccidiosis, then set up a separate “sick” brooder, to prevent spreading it further. Then buy Corid, which is the brand name for Amprolium, or Ampromed-P from Valley Vet. Treat the whole brood, not just the ill chick. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. And it must be the only water option for 5 days.
After treatment, give the chicks a vitamin supplement like Nutri Drench.
Common Chick Problems: Marek’s Disease
This sickness is a highly contagious disease that causes immunosuppression and neurological disorders in birds. Generally young chickens are more at risk from one day old to one month. You may not see signs for 3 to 6 weeks, but symptoms of Marek’s include
Paralysis: loss of motor control, staggered movements in either one or both legs with inability to stand or balance
Immunosuppression: makes birds more vulnerable to other illnesses
Wry or twisted neck when cervical nerve is involved
Trouble eating and breathing
Tumors in lungs, liver, kidneys, or ovaries; and skin lesions or bleeding feather follicles
Discolored iris, deformed pupils, or blindness
Weight loss, loose watery, and/or bright green stools
And brain swelling
To Prevent Marek’s Disease
There’s a vaccine for Marek’s disease, however it has to be given no later than day one of hatching. But Marek’s disease isn’t 100% preventable, even with vaccines. Vaccinated birds might never get sick. But if chickens are exposed to the virus, whether or not they’re vaccinated, they can still get the virus and infect other birds.
So practice good biosecurity: Keep your coop clean, and have designated shoes for your chicken yard. And wash your hands when visiting other chicken yards. Then change your clothes after those visits. And don’t forget to quarantine birds before introducing them to your flock.
Treating Marek’s Disease
There’s no cure for Marek’s disease, however you need to separate the chick from the rest of the brood. Although, just remember there are several issues that can mimic Marek’s disease. And disinfect with a virucidal product, and wear PPE gear to protect yourself.
Common Chick Problems: Pullorum
Pullorum disease is caused by the Salmonella bacteria. And it’s also highly contagious. In addition, it can be spread from hen to baby chick through the egg. But it can also be spread by contaminated feed, water, rodents, game birds, contaminated clothing, shoes, and equipment.
Symptoms of Pullorum in chicks is lack of appetite, huddling, weakness, and white diarrhea. Furthermore, mortality is very high within the first 2 weeks, including in the incubator.
To Prevent Pullorum
Buy hatching eggs from a reliable source. And keep your coop and run clean and dry. Additionally, practice good biosecurity. Also, keep your flock’s food and water away from wild game birds.
Currently the recommended treatment is euthanizing your flock, since it’s very contagious, and to prevent further outbreaks. And then you must disinfect with a virucidal product; remember to wear PPE. Also, in some states, you’re required to report the disease to the authorities.
Common Chick Problems: Aspergillosis
This is a fungal disease that causes pneumonia in chicks, so it’s routinely called “brooder pneumonia.” The fungus, Aspergillus, can live in feed, bedding, and even animal tissue. It produces spores, which spread through the air, only to germinate, to complete its fungal life cycle. Aspergillus spores can be inhaled by healthy birds and mammals and be completely harmless. Though, there are a couple of factors that can change this.
A habitat with high levels of spores can overwhelm the body’s natural defenses, such as day-old chicks in brooders.
Birds with other illnesses are more at-risk to infection.
Situational factors, including extreme cold, high levels of ammonia or dust can stress birds and lower their immune function. And this lowers their ability to fight infections, increasing the likelihood of developing aspergillosis.
And if you have chickens or chicks on antibiotics, they will be more vulnerable to aspergillosis, because antibiotics kill all bacteria, including ones in the respiratory tract.
Symptoms of aspergillosis included gasping, open-mouthed breathing, lack of appetite, increased thirst, drowsiness, eye swelling, blindness, and/or wry neck.
To Prevent Aspergillosis
Practice good sanitation by cleaning and disinfecting brooders and incubators. Also clean feeders and waterers and replace with new feed and fresh, clean water. Store feed in dry, clean containers, free from dust. And replace bedding regularly, especially if wet.
Treating Aspergillosis
Symptoms of aspergillosis in chicks include weakness, gasping for breath, and sudden death. So if you think you have a chick infected with aspergillosis, you should call your veterinarian. Anti-fungals, like Nystatin, are recommended for 4-6 months, but it isn’t clear whether the doses are for adult birds or not. Also, most people might not try the treatment, because it might not work. It takes a long time, and your chicks might not be able to handle it.
Common Chick Problems: Infectious Bronchitis
IBV, or Infectious Bronchitis, is an avian coronavirus that only affects chickens. And it’s commonly referred to as a cold. The virus sheds from infected birds through respiratory secretions and/or feces. And it can spread through the air, food and water, or contact with contaminated equipment and clothing. Symptoms of IBV include
Sneezing, coughing, and rattling sounds when breathing
Pink-eye and labored breathing, possible facial swelling with simultaneous sinus infection
Weak, huddling under heat lamps
Not eating while losing weight
Depending on the strain, there can be respiratory symptoms, then weakness, ruffled feathers, wet droppings, more water intake, and then death
There are available vaccines, however there are also many strains. And then multiple boosters are required. Thus, the vaccinations are more ideal for commercial producers, not backyard enthusiasts. Though, for backyard flocks, continue to practice good biosecurity, and keep a clean coop and brooder. And sanitize equipment and shoes you use in the chicken yard. Also, quarantine birds and chicks that show signs of respiratory issues.
Treating Infectious Bronchitis
If you think you have a chick or chicks with IBV, there is no treatment, although antibiotics for 3-5 days might help fight off any secondary infections. But for brooding chicks, it’s a good idea to raise the temperature 5° till symptoms go away. And make sure ill birds aren’t exposed to other stressors. Further, add electrolytes to their water.
Birds can recover, though they can still shed the virus for up to 5 months.
Common Chick Problems: Rot Gut
Rot Gut is caused by toxins produced by Clostridium perfringens, which is a bacteria present in the intestinal tract of birds. And in normal circumstances the good bacteria keep the Clostridium perfringens population small in numbers.
But when the circumstances change in the intestines, Clostridium perfringens increases, toxins are formed, and the disease emerges. Possible causes of Rot Gut are overcrowding in the brooder, diets high in animal by-products, and previous intestinal issues, like Coccidiosis. And symptoms include listlessness, ruffled feathers, rotten smelling diarrhea, and death.
To Prevent Rot Gut
Treat your birds like kings and queens with plenty of space, new food, and fresh, clean water daily. Also, either vaccinate the chicks for Coccidiosis or provide medicated chick starter.
Keep the coop and/or brooder clean and well ventilated.
And monitor your birds frequently for illnesses or anything out of the ordinary.
If you have a bird or chick you suspect has Rot Gut, bacitracin, penicillin, or lincomycin can be used. But the disease advances quickly, often causing permanent intestinal damage. So it’s easier to prevent it before it happens, than try to stop it once it’s in your yard or brooder.
Common Chick Problems: Mushy Chick Disease
Mushy chick disease, aka navel-yolk sac infection and omphalitis, is caused by many different bacteria. Naval deformity in newly hatched chicks makes an opening for any and all bacteria. And artificially hatched chicks are more at-risk for this than naturally hatched chicks. In addition, symptoms can be different depending on the particular bacteria, but can include
Droopy heads
Not eating
Offensive odor
Swollen or distended, leaky navel
Open navels
Weak, huddling under heat source
And death often starts at hatching
To Prevent Mushy Chick Disease
This disease is totally preventable by good hygiene practice. Therefore,
Avoid egg sweating, because bacteria can then penetrate the shell
Clean and disinfect equipment, incubators, and brooders
Don’t incubate dirty eggs
Apply iodine to any unhealed navels
And don’t transfer newly hatched chicks to the brooder until they’ve fluffed out
Treating Mushy Chick Disease
Similar to Pullorum, Mushy Chick Disease doesn’t have an agreed upon treatment. Most people humanely cull their sick birds rather than trying to treat them. And that’s because there are many different strains of bacteria that can cause it. So, if you’re dealing with Mushy Chick Disease, by the time you find out which strain you’re dealing with, the chicks might already be dead.
With that being said, add electrolytes to the water, keep the brooder bedding dry, by changing it often, and make sure there’s good ventilation.
Common Chick Problems: Splayed Legs and Curled Toes
Splayed, or spraddle, leg is basically muscle weakness in the legs and feet. It looks like the chick’s legs are to the side, making it unable to walk. And it can be caused by inconsistent temperatures during incubation, slick surfaces in the brooder, or a vitamin deficiency.
Additionally, chicks can hatch with either crooked, curled toes, or curly toe paralysis. Or they can develop crooked or curled toes after hatching. And the same things that cause splayed leg also cause toe problems. Symptoms of curly toe paralysis include a sudden appearance of chicks walking on their hocks, while chicks with crooked toes will have one or more toes that curve sideways, making them walk on the sides of those toes.
To Prevent Splayed Leg
Provide good, high quality feed to your backyard birds. And limit the treats to snack-size portions only.
Before incubating, calibrate a separate thermometer; and then place that in the incubator to monitor the temperature. Further, have a back-up plan in the event the power goes out.
Avoid slick surfaces in the incubator during hatching, and also in the brooder. Provide either pine shavings, sand, paper towels, cloth, or small animal paper bedding.
And provide adequate space and heat in the brooder. Because, if chicks get chilled, they’ll huddle together. And in some cases, chicks could stack on top of each other, hurting the ones below.
To Prevent Curly Toe Paralysis and Crooked Toes
Follow the same guidelines above, in preventing splayed legs, when also preventing curly toe paralysis and crooked toes:
Provide high quality feed to breeding hens
Have stable temperature in the incubator
And avoid slick surfaces and crowding in the brooder
Treating Splayed Leg
Splayed leg is treatable, and the younger the chicks are, the better the results. The main thing is to make a leg brace to restrict movement. You can use a Bandaid, Vetrap, a hair tie, or a rubber band to bind the chick’s legs together in a normal position. But be sure the legs are in the correct position and that the brace isn’t too confining. Then change the brace every 24 hours to check how the legs are progressing. And make a new one if needed.
Treating Curly Toe Paralysis and Crooked Toes
This was Baby Nay, when he was first hatched.
To treat crooked toes in chicks, you need to align the toes correctly, then use Vetrap to keep them in place. Then leave the Vetrap on for ~ 24-48 hours to check your progress.
Curly toe paralysis can be cured the same way as crooked toes, with Vetrap or a Bandaid shoe, by also straightening and binding the toes. However, you need to supplement with Riboflavin, because this problem is commonly associated with that deficiency. A lot of sites will tell you to make a cardboard “shoe” if more than one toe is involved. Well, we did that with Baby Nay, our rooster whose egg got stepped on. (We had to assist his hatch 8 days early.) And one of his issues was curly toes, so we made him cardboard shoes.
Also, just a few weeks ago we hatched 14 chicks. And the last chick to hatch was kinda wobbly. I wasn’t too concerned, because they’re all kinda wobbly soon after hatching. However she didn’t improve, so I checked out her toes, and noticed she had several curly ones. But instead of making the cardboard shoes, my husband just used Coban, which is similar to Vetrap. It was a lot easier than making cardboard shoes. Plus, it worked better, because it stayed on better. Although if you want to make cardboard shoes,
First, place a small piece of cardboard under the chick’s feet.
Next, trace the feet.
Then cut out the outline of the chick’s feet.
And correctly align the chick’s toes before taping them to their shoes.
Finally, check after 24-48 hours.
Now it’s possible you could have a more advanced case of curly toe paralysis, where the chick is actually walking on its hocks. In this scenario you would need to have a cushion, like foam, for the hocks. So you would secure the foam to the hocks with tape. And then continue making the rest of the shoe.
Signs of Healthy and Sick Chicks
This list certainly isn’t exhaustive, though I tried. But for those of you who are new to this, you might not know what healthy or sick chicks look like. Some symptoms can definitely be obvious, while others not so much. So if you hatch them yourself, whether or not the eggs came from your hens, we’ll cover that first. For the first day of hatching, chicks will be tired. And that’s completely normal, because it takes a lot of energy to hatch out of an egg. They won’t even be interested in drinking or eating for maybe 2 or 3 days. Though, personally, we start offering it by day 2.
After you have the temperature adjusted properly in the brooder, and the chicks have gained their strength, they will have energy appropriate for their ages. And they will start sounding like babies. If you’ve had kids or been around kids, you’ll know what this means. When they’re hungry, thirsty, cold, or hot, they will cry or cheep. Or when something else is wrong, someone is getting bullied, or falls over, they will cry or cheep louder. But my point is that healthy chicks eat, drink, sleep, move around, and yes, they do make noise. The older they get, the noisier they get. However they shouldn’t sound distressed.
Likewise, if you get or have chicks that you purchased or had shipped to you, then their behaviors should resemble chicks that are 2 day or 3 day old chicks: They have energy, they’re eating, drinking, sleeping, etc.
Signs to Watch Out for
But even if you hatched chicks, or had them for more than 48 hours, here are some things to keep an eye on:
Sleepiness: sleeping a lot or just standing around
Head twisted back over the shoulders could indicate wry neck or stargazing
Hunched or ruffled appearance
Bad smells: try to determine where the smell is coming from
And last but not least, if a chick is off by itself, doing any or all of these things is also a cause for concern
To Summarize
There are many common chick problems. And most, if not all, of them can be prevented by regular cleaning and disinfecting brooders and coops. Also, by providing new food and fresh clean water daily, and practicing good biosecurity. Biosecurity, according to the Poultry Extension
refers to the measures taken to prevent the introduction and/or spread of disease in a poultry flock. It is important for every poultry operation to develop, and implement, a biosecurity plan.
But then the article goes on to say more in depth about how to implement that plan. You can check it out here.
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Recently I wrote an article about incubating chicken eggs. Whether or not you’ve ever experienced hatching chicks, it’s possible you’ve been around day-old chicks. And you can appreciate how raising baby chicks is different from raising adult birds.
In the event you have hatching chicks, or purchase them either from a feed store or a breeder, you first need a brooder. Because, just like incubating chicken eggs, you need a place to put the chicks. And that’s the purpose of the brooder.
The best brooder is a broody hen, because she can hatch and then raise her offspring. However it’s not ideal if you want a surplus of chicks. Or if the eggs aren’t due the same day, or you don’t have a broody hen.
And similar to incubating chicken eggs, temperature is just as important with raising chicks. So, if you purchase a brooder, it will have a heat source. Though, if you make your own, it will need one. But before we get into brooders and heat sources, let’s discuss chicks. How many do you want? Are you raising chickens for eggs? Or are you interested in meat production? Maybe a little of both? And how much space do you have? Having adequate space and shelter are 2 of the most important needs when raising and caring for chickens.
Raising Baby Chicks: Space
There doesn’t seem to be much consensus in the chicken community as to how much space individual chicks should have. I’ve seen numbers from 1/2 square foot all the way to 5x that amount or more. However, there’s more agreement when it comes to adult birds. But back to baby chicks. They will grow, so their space should too; plan on them being in their brooders for about 6 weeks.
For example, each year that we’ve hatched our own eggs we always first put the hatchlings in a 2’3″L x 1”6″W x 16″H Rubbermaid box. And we’ve hatched maybe 1-3 broods each year for the past 6 years. However we don’t have big clutches. The first and this last time we had 13-14 chicks each; the biggest broods. And that’s because we like to be able to spend time with the chicks, imprinting on them. Further, if you incubate your own eggs, you have to figure that you’ll get unfertilized eggs as well.
And we don’t keep them in the Rubbermaid box. Currently our newest group is in a 3’2″L x 2’0″W x 22″H wood and wire mesh box. It’s the luxury mobile brooder; it can be moved out to the yard, so everyone can see each other when the time is right.
Now I’m going to cover brooders and heaters.
Brooders and Heaters
This is a nighttime shot.
Conventional Hover Brooder: This looks just like a box, hence the Rubbermaid box. You can purchase one or make your own. And if you’re in a hurry, you can use cardboard. Also, the heater used in this type of brooder is infrared, which is ideal for lots of 200 chicks or less. And for every 50-75 chicks, provide a 250-watt red lamp. The red light is better, because it’s easier for the chicks to sleep, and it reduces pecking.
Radiant Heater/Brooder: This combusts gas to heat radiant surfaces. Plus, it has more even heat distribution. And it can be used for larger operations.
Hot Air Furnace: Forced air heats the air with gas, electricity, water, or diesel, and needs more ventilation. This type is also for larger scale operations.
Pancake Heater/Brooder: The Pancake brooder is similar to the Radiant brooder, in that they both use gas. And usually just heats the birds on the floor like the Radiant brooder.
Raising Baby Chicks: Temperature
Now that you know about brooders and heaters, until the chicks feather out, the temperature in the brooder needs to start out at ~ 95°. But, week-to-week, decrease it by 5°, so the chicks can begin acclimating. By the time they reach 6 weeks old the temperature should be 65-70°.
You can keep a calibrated thermometer in the brooder. Or you can just watch the chicks and monitor their behavior. If all the chicks are huddled together under the light, cheeping or not, they’re cold. But if they’re spread out far from the light, wings held out from their bodies, and panting, they’re too hot. You want them moving around, displaying normal behavior: eating, drinking, sleeping, and playing. Therefore, if they act like they’re too cold or too hot, you can adjust the position and distance of the lamp until the chicks show you that they feel comfortable.
Furthermore, if using the 250-watt infrared red lamp, then have a back-up in case one goes out. In addition, some sites recommend placing the chicks in an unused room with the door closed. And then others warn of the dangers of this lamp and fires. While the danger is real, especially if out of sight, you should keep these tips in mind:
Keep hardware cloth or steel diamond mesh as a lid so the chicks have some ventilation. Also, that way your chicks won’t jump on the lamp. Plus, the lid protects against potential threats, such as pets or other creatures. And the chicks won’t be able to get out.
Use a lamp guard, so the hot bulb won’t be touching anything.
If you use a clamp, even better! That makes it secure.
And if using an extension cord, check for cuts, abrasions, and pinches. Don’t use a damaged cord. If it’s in bad shape, buy a new, thicker gauge extension cord, so it won’t be as prone to damage.
Lastly, make sure the fixture is porcelain, not plastic. The difference is whether or not there will be a fire.
Bedding
Most chicken aficionados recommend pine shavings for chicks. And then switch to straw when they’re adults. In the past I used pine shavings too. However, when we lost our bunny, we had a whole lotta unopened bedding for him. So my husband wanted to use that for the chicks. Let me say, it’s far superior, in my opinion, to pine shavings for little chicks: there’s no dust, smell, and it’s more absorbent. Plus, since it’s paper, it’s safe if the chicks peck at it.
Don’t use newspaper. Not only is it non-absorbent and you’ll have a stinky problem, but it’s slick for the chicks. Thus, they could wind up spraddle or splay legged.
Spread about 2-4″ of litter on the bottom of the brooder. But you don’t need as much during warmer months. Though, if you have chicks when it’s cold, you’ll need more litter to help keep them warm.
Also, chicks are messy, like human babies, except they don’t wear diapers. So, to prevent disease, plan on changing out the bedding regularly. How regularly? I don’t know; that’s going to depend on the number of chicks you have. Obviously the more you have, the more they’ll scratch their feed, poop, pee, and generally make a mess. Additionally, the bigger they get, the bigger and sooner the messes will get.
Raising Baby Chicks: Food and Water
This is one type of chick feeder; but there are others. Or you can make your own.
Always provide fresh, clean water for your chicks in a chick fountain; it’s the easiest set-up. And don’t be surprised to see chick poo in the water. That’s why it’ll need to be cleaned out. Additionally, in all of the broods we’ve had, I’ve never had any chicks who didn’t instinctively know how to drink or eat. But we’ve had a couple that had issues; my rooster who hatched 8 days early, so if we didn’t intervene he would’ve died. Thus, there might be extenuating circumstances where you might have to dip a chick’s beak into the water, to get them started.
Provide chick starter with 18-22% protein, because you want them to get a good start. Further, supply it in a feeder, in an attempt to keep it in one area. But, since chicks already know how to scratch their food, it’ll end up all over the brooder and look like perfectly good food. However, they’ll also poo all over the brooder, including their food. Thus, their poo will need to be removed and feeder refilled.
Their feed comes in medicated or non-medicated; medicated chick starter helps protect against coccidiosis. Though, it’s not a substitute for cleanliness or good practices. Also, their feed contains all the nutrients they need. But after a couple of weeks, if you want, you can try to offer them treats. However, don’t be surprised if they’re scared of you at first and your offerings, unless you have only a very small group. And if they are hand-raised, this is very rewarding, because in the long run they won’t be shy and will associate you with good things.
Playtime
Chickens, including baby chicks, love to roost when resting. You can add roosting poles a few inches from the bottom of the brooder as early as 2 weeks after hatch day. But not all of them will perch that early.
However, your chicks could be totally different from mine. This is from my own experience and from others with similar flocks. I’ve read about flocks where the chicks were 12 weeks old before they were interested in roosting. So go ahead and offer them; but it’s ok if the chicks aren’t interested.
And you can use different things for roosts: Dowels, 1x1x8″ wood board, bricks, or sticks from your yard. Just make sure they fit the brooder, are secure, and offer enough space per chick. But, trust me, they don’t all roost until they’re older.
Furthermore, chicks look like they’re molting within a few days of hatching, which is good; it means their feathers are coming in. And that also means, on warmer days, you can bring them outside in the sunshine. But if you don’t have a small brood, keep them in a collapsible pen or rabbit cage that they can’t get out of. That’s to keep them safe from predators, including pets, accidents, or getting lost.
We’ve only had 2 broods we didn’t keep enclosed when going outside. And that’s because there were only 4 chicks both times with 3 of us chick-sitting. Otherwise, they’re always locked up at such a young age, because they move too fast and aren’t aware of all the dangers. Remember, at this point, they’re able to fly a little bit!
Raising Baby Chicks: Safe Handling
Should you handle your chicks? How soon and how often? Well, yes, handle your chicks. If you purchase them, ASAP. But if you’re hatching them, wait till they’re ready to be moved to the brooder. However, don’t handle the chicks for very long, especially if they don’t have their feathers, because they’ll be cold. And hold them securely. Don’t walk around or hold them like you would a baby on their backs. Because it causes them distress, and they have difficulty breathing. Here are some other tips for holding chicks:
Wash your hands right after holding chicks and chickens.
If washing your hands isn’t an option, use hand sanitizer.
Supervisechildren when they are around and holding chicks; quick movements scare chicks.
Avoid eating where chickens live; and avoid touching your mouth before washing your hands.
And oversee the hand washing of young children.
In Conclusion
Raising baby chicks is a fun and educational experience, one the whole family can enjoy. And they grow so fast. Furthermore, there are things you can do to help your chicks make the transition into adult backyard birds, ensuring their health and production.
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Chicken Girl 