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Early spring marks the start of mating season for most birds, both wild and domesticated. But how do birds find a mate? No doubt many of you are aware of courtship displays among birds. However, how, in particular, do ducks and chickens find mates? While it’s likely you know what a roosterdance is, how do ducks exhibit their desires? In addition, how do ducks and chickens recognize their mates? Moreover, how do they distinguish between male and female within their own species, and that of another?
A lot of birds, including chickens, are recognized by sex visually, as you’ll see below. However, it’s not so simple with ducks. For instance, we only have 2 kinds of ducks in our backyard: Pekin and hybrid Mallards. Hence, they all look similar by grouping in size and color. The only obvious difference are the tail feathers on the males. Rather than being straight like a female, they curve or curl upward. Well, not long ago we had an Olive Egger we named Benjamin Franklin. And he was a little odd.
Since his egg hatched the same time the guinea and duck eggs hatched, we raised him with them when he was a chick. But when he was a juvenile, we tried moving him in with the other juvenile chickens. Though, he resisted and kept going back to his original family, the ducks and guineas. However, as he got older, he’d do chicken things, like foraging and hanging out a little bit with the other juvenile roos. Though he’d always go back to his family. Eventually he started having rooster urges, like mating, but not toward any of the female chickens. He would only try to mate with the female ducks. But how did he know which of the ducks were female, and which were male? Join me as I attempt to answer these questions.
How Do Birds Find a Mate
Ravage already did his tidbitting, and now he’s sharing a banana peel.
Before a male bird performs for his intended, it’s logical for there to first be attraction. Thus, what causes roosters and hens to be attracted to each other? Likewise, what about ducks? Or, as in the case of my wayward juvenile rooster, what causes cross-species attraction?
What Attracts Roosters & Drakes to the Opposite Sex, and Vice-versa
Mainly what attracts both ducks and chickens to the opposite sex is all about the looks, such as
color
While both sexes prefer red combs, female chickens also look for red wattles, and red eye color of potential mates. For chickens, red is a sign of health and fertility. And female ducks fancy blue plumage in a drake, which indicates reproductive strength. It’s also referred to as a special breeding plumage. Female ducks lack breeding plumage, with the exception of the Paradise Shelduck in New Zealand.
Most of our female chickens are black, black and white, or gray. Not very exciting if you ask me. However, for a short time we had one Rhode Island Red hen named Jango. She was middle-aged, and all the boys liked her. She saw more action than the rest of the hens combined. I always wondered if it was because the guys liked red-heads.
size
Again, chickens of both sexes lean toward birds with bigger combs. However, comb length isn’t a consideration. And female ducks pick smaller drakes over larger ones.
plumage
It seems both female ducks and chickens go with flashy plumage. For ducks, it has to be the best. Additionally, whether it’s the best ornamental feathers a rooster has or not is up to each female chicken’s interpretation, I suppose. But that’s what a hen looks for.
social display
It’s at this point that the courtship displays come into play. And both roos and drakes have them. According to those in the know, roosters have 3 types of courtship displays: waltz, nesting, and feeding. Though, for a female chicken, the first two don’t affect her as much. Rather, if female chickens are attracted to males, it’s usually via tidbitting. Moreover, female ducks choose the most skillful performer.
and food
Whether it’s food that males ingest themselves or offer to a potential mate, it has an effect on how well they’re received by females. In one study, female ducks preferred drakes that ate free-choice. It was probably more due to physique than the actual feed or schedule. I assume the drakes that ate free choice looked healthier. And female chickens are lured to roosters by type of treat he’s tidbitting instead of just his call. That makes sense, especially as some roos tidbit leaves or trash. The girls have priorities.
How Ducks and Chickens Recognize Mates, and Males and Females of Other Species
This is the only shot I was able to get of Benjamin Franklin trying to mate one of the ducks. But it certainly wasn’t the only time.
Vocalization
Scientists found that chickens make around 30 sounds, 19 of which are identifiable. And both chickens and ducks can recognize members of their own species, and other signals, by vocalization. In addition, according to the University of Maryland Extension, chick embryos are able to hear around the 12th day of embryonic development. Ducklings also vocalize to each other days before hatching to synchronize their hatch day. And moms of both species communicate vocally to their young while brooding.
Imprint at hatch
Imprinting is a quick learning method that occurs at a young age in social animals. Plus, it’s typically a result of visual and vocal cues, which lead us to the next item.
Visual
Vision helps chicks identify and recognize their family. Though, studies claim hearing is more reliable. Additionally, chickens rely on vision for their hierarchy. But vision alone isn’t foolproof. For example, one day Chopper, one of our older ‘Cauna hens, wanted to dustbathe. But Loki, a Sex-link hen, was in the spot she wanted. Chop thought Loki was just another random black hen, because we have so many. She proceeded to bully Loki and almost got killed. Even though they were both on the same spot of the pecking order, Loki was a lot bigger. Alternatively, ducklings know their mom and siblings on sight. After all, it’s part of imprinting.
Smell
It was initially believed that birds, including chickens, had a poor sense of smell. But studies have demonstrated chickens react to olfactory stimuli, especially in the absence of visual and auditory cues. In addition, this study revealed that chicks form behavioral associations with distinct odors that are added while they’re still in the egg. Thus, chicks can recall scents from the nest before they even hatch.
And in this experiment, it seems smell is a factor for ducks finding a mate. Even though it’s established that chickens have individual body odors and respond to familiar smells, I couldn’t find anything supporting the same in chickens. Therefore, olfactioncould have an effect on mate choice with chickens, and we just don’t know it yet.
and Pheromones
Lastly, pheromones go hand in hand with the sense of smell, especially regarding mate choice and reproduction. But since birds weren’t thought to have a sense of smell, so too they obviously couldn’t have pheromones. Although, as more and more research has shown, birds, like chickens and ducks, do have a sense of smell. It would be logical to assume then that they also release pheromones, or at the very least, their very own unique perfume.
Both ducks and chickens have a uropygial gland, aka the preen gland, which is located at the base of their tail feathers. In ducks this gland secretes a waxy fluid, which helps water-proof them. On the other hand, chickens don’t require water-proofing, but the gland still secretes an oily substance. Besides feather care, what other purpose could this serve in chickens? Additionally, it has been observed that both species emit different odors from this gland. And distinct studies on both species conclude the secretions from this gland are likely pheromones.
So, How do Birds Find a Mate
Most birds, including chickens and ducks, find mates based on color, size, and plumage. After this point, the males try to win their intended’s affection by performing a courtship display. And for some birds, like ducks, only the best performer will succeed. But don’t discount the importance of food in the bird dating game. Moreover, birds recognize each other by sound and smell often in the embryonic stage, especially if incubated together. And it’s only after hatch that they visually recognize each other.
Since my species-confused rooster was incubated and raised with guineas and ducks, it’s a possibility that he could also recognize the sounds and smells of the guineas and ducks in ova as well. And when he hatched, he could very well have imprinted on them, recognizing them as family by all of his senses. Therefore, with this insight, it also seems plausible that he would be able to distinguish between male and female. Are you wondering why Benjamin Franklin chose a duck to love instead of a guinea hen? It’s obvious to me: ducks are way smarter compared to guineas.
Have you noticed your chickens were more responsive to a particular mate, or chose one over another? Do you think there are other ways birds can recognize each other?
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As the eggs decrease and chickens molt, you might be concerned about your birds and the weather. But did you know that chickens are better equipped for the cold? It’s summer heat they have more difficulty with. Regardless, below are tips on how to care for chickens in cold weather.
I’ve known that chickens are very hardy birds since having them for over 8 years. And I’m also aware that certain birds are better suited for cold weather, while others are suited for hot weather. What I didn’t know was that there’s really no minimum temperature for keeping chickens. That’s because chickens can acclimate to the weather conditions where they live.
How to Care for Chickens in Cold Weather
Water Responsibly
Since you want the coop to stay as dry as possible, don’t leave food or water in the coop. Plus, if it’s freezing outside, their water will freeze too. And then your birds will be cold. Not only is water essential to a chicken’s diet, it also helps with digestion. In fact, studies found that chickens down 1.5 to 2 times as much water as feed. In addition, if their water is frozen and they can’t drink, they will get dehydrated.
I would love to have electricity to my coop. It would help with many things, especially frozen water. Though, that’s just not feasible at this time. Here are options regarding managing your chickens’ wintry water. Some tips assume you have electricity in your coop, whereas others don’t.
Control Moisture in the Coop
Again, don’t leave water in the coop, especially overnight, because your birds will be sleeping anyway. Just keep the water in the run. And depending on the litter method you use, check your run and coop floor if your chickens are pasture raised. For instance, as it gets colder and there’s any sort of precipitation, your birds might track in mud or leaves. That will cause moisture in the coop.
Moreover, use dropping boards, which are shelves that collect chicken droppings. Then scrape them each morning and remove the poop from the coop. Since chicken waste contains ~75% moisture, the less poop in the coop, the less moisture. Further, ammonia is generated by bird droppings. Therefore, if allowed to get out of hand, it can create a health issue for you and your chickens.
Also, if you have windows in your coop and notice condensation on them in the mornings, you have a moisture and humidity problem. Even if you don’t have windows, inspect the walls and ceiling carefully for condensation. If you see any, it could be due to neglected bird waste, waterers in the coop, absolutely no ventilation, or unsatisfactory litter type. Just go through each of those items and eliminate their possibility.
Use Sand for Litter
Many chicken keepers have been using sand as a litter material as opposed to straw, hay, or pine shavings. Think of a giant cat litter box but for chickens. Without getting into too much detail, it is said to have better absorbency. So, the idea is it keeps the coop drier, which is vital to keeping your birds warm during winter.
After reading all of the literature out there on it, we definitely plan on changing over to sand.
Eliminate Drafts
First, examine the coop for any needed repairs, like holes or broken seals in doors and windows. Block any drafts in the coop, especially where your birds roost. Actually stand in there, if you can, and try to see if you can feel any drafts yourself. However, still make sure you have ventilation at the top of the coop for moisture and ammonia to escape. Don’t seal up the coop completely. Your birds will still make moisture: through respiration and their waste. Therefore, if it’s sealed completely, the moisture will just be trapped in the coop. And it will make the litter wet and condensation will build up, making your birds cold, and then sick.
Next, depending upon the snowfall amounts in your area, add a roof to your run and plastic sheeting to the sides. Or, if you can’t do a roof, cover your entire run with plastic sheeting to create wind breaks. Although, if you get a lot of high winds on your property, you might need something stronger, like a tarp.
Relieve Boredom
If your birds are going to be cooped up due to inclement weather, provide enrichment activities. Add roosts in the run. And fill a kiddie pool with potting soil to let your chooks dust bathe. Plus, if your run has a roof, hang a cabbage from the ceiling for them to eat. It’s a healthy treat while stimulating their foraging instincts.
Feed
Continue providing the appropriate commercial feed. And offer free-choice grit, since foraging may be hindered. Moreover, digestion of scratch grains produces heat. Usually I refer to scratch as crack cocaine, thus, I don’t recommend it. Although, if it keeps the chooks warm, let them have some in the evening during winter. But moderate amounts.
To Heat or not to Heat
Recall that I said, “chickens can acclimate to the weather conditions where they live.” If you add a heater, your birds will never acclimate to the cold. Besides, there are some issues with adding a heat source to a chicken coop.
First of all, heaters are a fire hazard. It’s just not worth the risk of setting fire to my coop or house, and losing everything. Secondly, having a power outage will kill chickens. If they haven’t acclimated to the weather, chickens can die from quick, severe drops in temperature.
There are very few instances where a chicken might need supplemental heat. But by and large, most do not. You’ll find those few cases further down. Regardless, monitor every bird for signs of weakness, inactivity, or frostbite. Some sites refer to cold stress as birds huddling together or standing with one foot up. However, some of my birds do that on days when it’s 40°F out. One of my roosters was crowing on one foot like a diva the other day.
Eggs
Collecting eggs frequently not only prevents egg-eating, but it also prevents the eggs from freezing. However, to further protect your eggs, line your nesting boxes with organic material in the event your hens peck test the bedding. And replace weekly as it becomes used, old and/or lacking. I don’t recommend blankets or similar, due to moisture retention. In addition, always inspect the eggs you collect. And throw out any with cracked shells to prevent food-related illness.
Snow or Ice
Chickens don’t like inclement weather. Most of my chickens, and all of my ducks, will go out when the snow starts melting. They’ll walk around and eat the snow. Though, if yours aren’t like mine, you may have to shovel a path for your birds. But don’t force them to go out in the snow. This is where a roof or tarp for your run comes in handy.
Frostbite
Be aware that when winter weather is bad and temperatures are below freezing, even cold hardy birds are at-risk for frostbite. But birds with single combs are at even greater risk. So a preventative measure is to spread Vaseline on their combs and wattles.
Additionally, if there’s condensation in your coop or you smell ammonia, your birds are in danger of frostbite. Low temperatures plus high humidity spells trouble.
Exceptions to these Cold Weather Tips
Smaller breeds, like Silkies, those that are molting or have large combs and wattles may need more care to stay warm, maintain body weight and remain healthy during extreme weather. Generally speaking any bird can get into trouble if left in the cold long enough. However, if your birds are healthy, you’re following the above tips and don’t leave your birds out in inclement weather, they should be fine.
The only precautions would be if you have smaller breeds, birds that have large, single combs or sick birds already. Then assuming you have a barn, put your at-risk birds in there, so they’ll be warmer. But if you have an ill bird, you want to quarantine them anyway. Therefore, maybe bring them inside the garage so they’ll be warm. Though, once they’re well, don’t suddenly bring them outside to severe temperatures to die. You have to get them acclimated to the weather again slowly. So, you might bring them back out when it’s sunny out.
Chicks and caring for chicks are completely different. They shouldn’t be outside, since they’re not feathered out yet. And without a heat source, chicks will die. See here for caring for chicks.
Have your chickens ever had issues during winter? What happened, and what did you do? Thanks for reading this. Please like, share, and if you don’t follow me already, you can do so now.
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Recently I wrote a post on how to tell if a chicken is sick. In the article I pointed out some of the most common chicken ailments I’ve seen. And one of the issues is sour crop. But just what is sour crop in birds? What are the symptoms? And is it the same as impacted or pendulous crop? I’ll cover these questions as we take a deep dive into sour crop.
My first experience with sour crop and impacted crop occurred after we hatched some chicks over a year ago. By this point they were already moved outside, in a section behind our big coop. When hand-raising chickens, if we lost any, which happens, it would happen early on. Like day 1 or 2 post hatch. Plus, we wouldn’t have multiple losses. But by the time the birds are fully feathered, they’re obviously more hardy. However, that doesn’t mean a predator couldn’t get one. Though, I never lost a young bird to something I felt could have been prevented. Until then.
We had 2 experiences back-to-back with those juveniles. And they were both pullets. With the first one, my husband brought me this juvenile hen that wasn’t eating, was fluffed out, and her crop was ballooned out. And when my youngest pushed on the crop, liquid just poured out, like she threw up. However, if you Google that, you’ll be told, chickens don’t throw up. Which I suppose is true, since the pullet didn’t regurgitate on her own. The 2nd pullet had the exact same symptoms. And I treated according to online recommendations. But instead of recovering, they got worse. The first one died in a matter of a few short days, while the 2nd one hung on a little longer. However, in the end, she developed an impacted crop.
First, What is a Crop in Birds
The crop is the primary organ for the brief storage of food prior to digestion. And chickens, including a lot of other birds, possess this unique pouch. This is different than the gizzard, which actually grinds up the food that’s eaten. Since chickens lack teeth, they need grit to help digest their food. Some birds actually store pebbles or stones in the gizzard to help digest seeds and nuts. Plus, a chicken’s crop is located around the front of their breast.
While a full crop in the evening is normal, a full crop in the morning is not. Assuming feed and water aren’t housed with the birds, you can check their crops in the morning. Therefore, take a healthy hen in the morning and gently massage her crop. It should feel flat. And it might even be difficult to locate, but not necessarily impossible. That’s normal. So when a chicken eats throughout the day and gets full, the crop will communicate to the chicken to stop eating. And if you examine your bird’s crop at that moment, it will feel firm but is somewhat pliable.
Conversely, if on occasion, you give your chickens treats, they’ll likely gorge themselves. Then the crops will immediately get full. Sometimes it will even appear a chicken is choking. That’s because they’re stuffing their crop so full like it’s their last meal on earth. In fact, all of my hens do that if there are treats. And I suppose that’s normal too.
What Causes Sour Crop in Birds
Because the primary symptom of sour crop is the sour smell emanating from the chicken’s beak, Candidiasis, a fungal infection, is the root cause of sour crop. Moreover, feeding chickens old or moldy feed has been associated with sour crop as well. Likewise, overfilling of the crop, as mentioned above with treats, can also contribute to sour crop in birds.
Signs of Sour Crop in Birds
As I stated, sour crop is most easily determined by the sour smell coming from your chicken’s beak. Though, other typical signs your chicken has sour crop include
a full, squishy crop in the morning
liquid exiting the beak if you gently massage or push on their crop
your chicken is fluffed up, lethargic, and isolated from the flock
and lastly, she may not be eating or drinking
Interestingly,
Candidiasis is more common in young and growing chickens with undeveloped immune systems, although any age of chicken with a weakened immune system can fall victim to it.
Typically you can diagnose sour crop in your chickens based on symptoms alone. However, if you have a chicken vet, they may do a culture by swabbing the crop. Or they may do a microscopic exam of the crop tissue, plus blood tests and x-rays.
How is Sour Crop Treated
This is the mixed bluestone copper sulfate solution. I had to administer this to my juvenile hen with a dropper.
As with pretty much anything involving health, prevention is key. It’s easier to provide the correct feed, clean water, grit, etc than to try and fix a problem after it’s settled in. Because chickens stop eating with these issues, they’re no longer getting needed nutrients. Or they may eat for a little while, but the food can’t digest since the crop hasn’t emptied. And the result is still the same. Therefore, sour crop is an emergency. So if you have a bird or chicken veterinarian, seek treatment. I would prefer taking my birds to a knowledgeable vet than practice on them myself. On the other hand, due to the lack of bird vets in my area, sometimes that’s exactly what I’ve had to do. Either that or lose a valued pet.
To treat sour crop
Mix 1 tsp Epson salt and 1/2 cup of water. Then, using a syringe dropper, flush the bird’s crop with this mixture. Be careful not to get water down the chicken’s airway!
Next, treat the fungal infection: Most vet offices use Nystatin. However, I’ve also read of others using Monistat 7. You can purchase this over the counter. Then, with a syringe, administer 50cc orally to your bird once daily for 7 days.
Alternatively, if you have bluestone copper sulfate, mix 4 oz with 1/4 c apple cider vinegar and 32 oz of water. Then add 1 tbsp of this solution to each gallon of the ill chicken’s water. But do NOT put this solution in a metal waterer. Do NOT use this bluestone copper sulfate and Monistat together. It’s an either or, not both.
Also, withhold food during this time. However, you can provide some water. But the general idea is to get the crop to go down and food to empty.
What is Impacted and Pendulous Crop
Impacted crop is where the bird’s crop is nearly rock hard, since there’s something indigestible stuck in it. Again, the bird with an impacted crop won’t eat or drink. And this is definitely an emergency. Furthermore, an impacted crop can be caused by sour crop, as my 2nd juvenile hen’s case was. Though, sour crop and impacted crop are still 2 distinct issues.
Pendulous crop happens due to previously impacted crops. And they appear large and will flop from side to side as the bird moves. In addition, chickens can live years with pendulous crops. However, there are crop support bras available.
Well, the name in itself gives the definition of sour crop. Plus, it involves a bird’s crop, which is the first part of digestion. And if you’ve ever had a chicken with sour crop, the smell is unforgettable. Further, the cause of the sour smell, and hence, the issue, is candidiasis, a fungal infection. But what causes the infection in the first place? Old, moldy feed, and overfilling or overstuffing of the crop. However, a crop that hasn’t completely emptied before the bird continues to eat can also cause sour crop.
So, what caused my juvenile birds’ sour crops when I never saw it before? I was feeding the same type of feed. And no, it wasn’t old or moldy. Moreover, I wasn’t giving them any treats. But, in my gut, I was convinced their environment played a huge part, if not the only part. You see, the back part was added onto to the big coop. And the floor wasn’t really a floor. So, when it rained, it got muddy. Thus, the straw would get swallowed up by the mud. Besides we had some ducklings mixed in with the juveniles. And if you’ve ever raised ducks, you know what a mess ducks make with water.
When I release new chicks and ducklings into the group, I enclose them for a week, until the adults can see and acknowledge them. However, that’s not what my husband did. He was afraid they would get eaten by a predator or bullied by the adults. Therefore, he kept them locked up on the backside of the coop for weeks. After these 2 incidents, I pointed this out to him: that we can’t keep the juveniles locked up on that back side, unless he builds an actual floor, and we provide grit. We’ve never had to provide grit before, since our birds are all pasture-raised. They pick up stuff when they forage. But if he was going to keep the juveniles penned up till kingdom come, they would need grit. Do I have proof that I’m right? No, except we haven’t had sour crop since. My guess is it was the ducks befouling the water, even though we changed it. The area was just always muddy. And there was no grit. Plus, they were young. A perfect combination for trouble.
Have you ever experienced sour crop in any of your chickens? What did you do? Thanks for reading my post. Please like, share, and if you don’t already do so, you can follow me now.
Digital art on a picture of one of our hens, courtesy of Sarah Smith.
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For eons in the wild, animals have masked any sign of weakness to avoid being eaten. This is instinctual behavior to hide from predators. And backyard chickens are not immune to this tendency. Therefore, chickens are hardwired to lie low when sick. Or they might even pretend that all is well. So, how do you know if one of your birds is ill or hurt before it’s too late? Today I’ll go over how to tell if a chicken is sick. Moreover, I’ll address the best ways to prevent sickness. And then cover treating the most common chicken illnesses.
When you have backyard chickens for a certain length of time, you definitely get to know them. You know your birds’ personalities and tendencies. And you know what they’ll do first thing when you open the coop door in the morning. However, you can also get so busy that you overlook those same things. It happens. I know, because I’ve done it. It’s easy to get into the rhythm of busy life and slack off on observing them. I’m not going to insult anyone by assuming you don’t know your birds. But I know people are human, with human tendencies, just like me. And when we get busy, we forget, sometimes even fundamental information.
The illnesses I list below aren’t the big ones that wipe out entire flocks. In fact, they’re not even ones you hear about on the news. Though, if ignored long enough, they can certainly be deadly. Because sometimes it’s the little things that trip us up more. And, as I said, they are way more common if we let things go for just long enough.
Disclaimer: Consult with a veterinarian before using the information provided in this post. I am not a veterinarian and the info contained in this post should not be seen as professional veterinary advice. If you use or rely on the information in this blog post, you do so at your own risk.
When I think of the most common chicken ailments, I automatically think of the most common human illnesses, like the common cold. Although not fun, people don’t necessarily die from them, unless there’s an underlying condition or weakness. However, you still don’t want to ignore the symptoms, which is why we manage them. And it’s the same with chickens. Some of these aren’t necessarily deadly when chickens first have symptoms. But, the problem is, chickens are excellent at hiding symptoms. Consequently, once you become aware that something’s going on, they’re worse than you think. Therefore, the most basic afflictions chickens will encounter include
parasites, such as mites, including leg mites, lice, ticks, and worms
All of these parasites can cause listlessness, decreased egg production, and a pale comb. And you can visually see them upon inspection. Also, if one bird has a parasite issue, you can bet you have other birds with them as well.
respiratory issues
Nasal discharge, coughing, wheezing, and difficulty breathing are all symptoms of respiratory issues. But that doesn’t necessarily mean they have Bird flu. There are plenty of colds and viruses that go around for chickens just as they do for people. If you have a bird that presents with respiratory issues, examine the rest of the flock for similar issues. They may or may not have a communicable disease.
When we had our Wyandotte boss, Fives, it seemed like she inherently always had something she was dealing with. However, none of the other chickens caught anything she had. But we isolated her just in case and until she sounded and was doing better.
diarrhea
Runny poo or a dirty bottom indicate GI issues. Moreover, this can be a contagious illness that you might see in some of your other hens.
crop issues, like sour crop and/or impacted crop
Sour crop is smelly, and when you press on the crop, liquid pours from the hen’s beak. However, an impacted crop is where the crop is very hard and won’t empty, because something indigestible is stuck in the crop. Plus, it’s a serious issue if not dealt with immediately. With either issue, the bird won’t eat.
egg binding
Signs of egg binding includes distended abdomen, straining, decreased activity, swollen vent, restlessness, and frequent sitting. Plus, your hen will waddle like a penguin. And upon inspection of the oviduct, there should be an egg.
injury from predator or from rooster during mating
Not only do you have to watch for predators from the land and air, but you have to watch your rooster too. If your hens are a lot smaller than your roo, or he’s just ungainly during mating, he can injure them. And the hen will hide her injury and be less likely to compete for food. Thus, she’ll get weaker, and invite more trouble to herself. She may not have any visible injuries, other than limp or hold a wing a certain way.
Therefore, when you let your birds out each morning, just watch them for a few minutes. And mentally go through a quick checklist of the above symptoms. I’ll narrow them down for you. Ask yourself if any of them
appear tired
have pale combs and wattles
have any visible parasites
are coughing or sneezing
have watery or bubbly eyes
have abnormal droppings
are not eating
have full cropsin the AM
can stand on their own
have NOTlaid an egg recently
are injuredor holding a wing a certain way
or have any strange lesions on the comb or wattles
If you discover that you have birds that are indeed ill, then isolate any from the main flock. And call your vet if they see chickens. However, don’t worry if you don’t have a vet that sees chickens or you can’t find one. Unless you are a big operation and are seeing widespread illness in your flock, this is likely an isolated incident. Thus, with a little TLC, your bird or birds will be back to normal in no time.
Alternatively, if you rarely clean your chicken coop or waterers, or don’t regularly change the feed, then this might not be an isolated event. Therefore, the single most important thing you can do to prevent your chickens from getting sick is keeping your coop clean.
Since my husband medically retired 4 years ago, he no longer super duper cleans the cooponly twice a year. Now he has the cleaning scheduled every 2 weeks. (Yes, you read that correctly.) Although, he still empties out the boxes on a daily basis. Due to his efforts, our chickens have been parasite free with absolutely no need to treat. And keeping the coop clean seems to keep most germs away. But, unfortunately, it doesn’t prevent crop issues, an egg-bound or an injured hen. Still, the only issues we’ve had have been from predators or roosters.
How to Care for a Sick Chicken
So, what do you do for an unwell chicken? How do you take care of them? For starters, if you know a poultry vet, call them. But again, if not, it isn’t the end of the world. Many backyard chicken enthusiasts don’t have access to a poultry veterinarian but still keep chickens. Other steps to take include
quarantine ill birds ASAP
Even if they aren’t contagious, depending on the symptoms and recommended treatment, you may still want to isolate your sick bird(s). Recall that chickens are notorious for bullying if and when they sense weakness. Hence, another reason to separate sick birds from the flock is to protect them from bullying and possibly cannibalism. Being harassed would only further aggravate their issue.
hydrate your ill birds
Make sure your sick bird or birds are drinking even if you have to use a dropper. Additionally, adding some electrolytes can be very beneficial to an ill bird, particularly if they were dehydrated.
offer food
In the beginning of treatment it isn’t as necessary as water. That said, if your unwell hen will eat, by all means, offer some food.
How to Treat an Ill Bird
Digital art on a picture of our hen, courtesy of Sarah Smith.
If your sick bird is showing signs from the most basic chickenafflictions above, and other than parasites, no other birds are affected, then continue reading for specific instructions.
Parasites
If your ill bird is infested with mites or lice, the best treatment is to
clean the coop thoroughly.
and spray the coop and chickens with Elector PSP. There’s no egg withdrawal for this treatment.
But if your bird is infested with worms, then you need to
find out what kind of worms they’re infested with
Some are rare, while others are more common. Also, there are different types of de-wormers. With that in mind, avoid the natural de-wormers, because you’ll waste your time and your bird’s health. They don’t work whatever they promise. Trust me, you need something that really works. Not garlic, not apple cider vinegar, and no, not diatomaceous earth either. Check out The Chicken Chick for more info on specific worms and de-wormers. And once you’ve got your girls back to normal, follow the list below to keep them that way.
To prevent any more worm infestations, you need to
keep the coop clean
keep food in pest proof containers like a galvanized metal trash can
provide fresh, clean water daily, and clean waterers daily
don’t throw food or treats on the ground
and practice good biosecurity: don’t let wild birds in your yard
Respiratory Issues
Chickens with respiratory issues can be quite stressful for you, the chicken keeper. For one, you don’t know if it’s serious. And two, you’re not sure if it’s contagious, since you hear annual reports of contagious chicken diseases. But it’s essential you don’t freak out. The best things you can do for your bird with a respiratory issue are already listed for you under how to care for a sick bird above. Other than that, watch your remaining birds to see whether they start developing any similar symptoms. Plus, continue to monitor your ill bird for changing symptoms. Are they getting worse, improving, or do they have any sores or spots on their combs or wattles? How about bubbly eyes?
If yes to the spots or lesions on combs and wattles then it could be fowl pox. And you would need to keep your birds quarantined for 2 to 3 weeks. Plus, there are 2 types of fowl pox: wet pox or dry pox. Wet pox is more serious as it’s internal and can cause breathing issues. There’s no treatment for fowl pox. However, if they only have bubbly eyes and not respiratory problems, then it’s some type of eye infection. And you can try gently rinsing the eye with saline. Then apply Neosporin. Although, that might not do much, since chickens dust-bathe. So you might need a chicken vet after all. We struggled with this issue in a juvenile rooster.
There can be several reasons why a chicken would have loose, runny stools, such as
coccidiosis
Your chickens and my chickens have coccidiosis. However, they don’t suffer the effects, because they’ve built up an immunity to it. Though, if you don’t practice good biosecurity, then someone who also owns chickens can pass their chickens’ coccidia to your chickens. And vice versa. Other symptoms of severe coccidiosis is weight loss and blood in the stool. Go here for more info on how to treat or prevent diarrhea caused by coccidiosis.
Worms
Usually worms do not produce diarrhea. That is, until a high worm load irritates the gut. And then that can cause a secondary bacterial infection, according to Richard Jackson BVMs from Poultry Keeper.
Viruses (such as rotavirus and adenovirus)
Young birds are most susceptible to diarrhea caused by viruses. If your bird has a virus, the illness will have to run its course. However, sterilize and sanitize everything related to your chic kens. And keep your ill bird separated from the flock.
Bacterial diarrhea
This could occur due to coccidiosis, worms, or any time the gut is damaged. Think of it as the chicken’s gut bacteria is out of balance. Fix the culprit, and then offer probiotics.
And a feed too high in protein
If you don’t feed your chickens the appropriate commercial feed, the result can be too wet droppings. And that will cause the litter to be too wet, which can further cause issues. Or it can be a breeding ground for disease if the chicken is untreated.
Now if the bird is otherwise healthy, eating and drinking, then just offer supportive care, making sure they don’t get dehydrated. Plus, you can collect a stool sample. And send it to your veterinarian for a worm sample. See here for detailed pictures and descriptions in case you aren’t certain about your own birds and their diarrhea.
Crop Issues
Photo by Anastasia Lafazanidou Kwnstantinidou on Pexels.com
There are many different articles and thus, recommendations for these issues. And you’ll find that people use sour crop and impacted crop interchangeably. However, they are not the same at all. They are distinct conditions, requiring distinct treatments. If your bird has impacted crop, but you treat them with the advice for sour crop, you will delay the proper treatment. And your bird might die.
Therefore, if you notice a sour smell from your bird, and they leak liquid when you press on their full crop, they have sour crop. So, you want to
flush the crop with 1 tsp Epson salt and 1/2 c water. Use a syringe, careful not to get water in the bird’s airway.
and treat the fungus: mix 4 oz of powdered bluestone copper sulfate with 1/4 c ACV(apple cider vinegar) and 32 oz of water. Then to each gallon of the sick bird’s water, add 1 tbsp of this solution. Do NOT put the solution in metal.
An impacted crop is where the crop is almost rock hard, because something indigestible is stuck. Again, there are many suggestions. But I don’t know if the people who offered those suggestions actually had any real-world experience with a chicken suffering from impacted crop. They recommend to lubricate the crop with olive oil or similar. How is that supposed to help? I guess I can see in theory, but in practice? You can try those wonky methods if you want. But, as I said, impacted crop is a life and death situation. Time is not on your side.
Unfortunately, it was while I was trying all of the wonky methods, when I finally came to the conclusion that nothing was helping my bird. I had to take drastic measures. So, I found some videos on people performing surgery on their own chickens; the same exact one my bird needed. And I ordered the materials. Although, my bird didn’t make it. She died before my order ever arrived. Please don’t be me. If you don’t have a chicken vet, order supplies so you’ll have what you need in the event you have a bird with impacted crop. Check this site out for more info. There are plenty of sites out there from others, like me, who’ve actually had chickens with impacted crop. Surgery is the only answer, if you want to save your bird. But you have to know the difference between impacted, pendulous, and sour crop.
Egg Binding
If you have a hen walking like a penguin, the number one condition that comes up on the internet is egg binding. However, there definitely can be other things going on. That said, an egg-bound chicken is certainly an emergency, not to be taken lightly. Thus, if your ill bird has other signs of being egg-bound, you can
offer her electrolytes in her water. But, if she won’t drink on her own, help by using a dropper.
Next, submerge her lower body, including vent, in a warm bath for 10-20 minutes. Gently towel her dry to prevent the egg from breaking.
Then apply Vaseline or KY jelly just inside and around the vent. This is to help her pass the egg.
Next, put her in a dark, separate place away from the flock.
If she is truly egg-bound (you know there’s an egg), and she hasn’t passed it yet, then absent veterinary help, most sites recommend removing the egg manually. However, it is extremely dangerous and difficult. So, caution is also advised.
As long as your hen appears well and not in shock, gentlypalpate her abdomen to locate the egg.
Then carefully shift the egg, trying to move it, so the hen can hopefully pass it.
Should this prove to fail too, the last option would be aspiration, implosion, and then removing it manually.
Check out Tim Daniels from Poultry Keeper for his advice.
And the best way to prevent egg binding is to feed your birds the appropriate commercial feed. And provide oyster shell. Plus, limit the treats to keep your birds from getting obese.
In the event you have a chicken with all of the signs of egg binding, except the presence of an actual egg, what then? As I mentioned, something else could be going on. So, if you do NOT see an egg on examination of your bird, then you know for sure they aren’t egg-bound. On the other hand, they may have
Most of the above are as serious as an egg-bound hen. Further, some of the issues require antibiotics, hormones, or surgery. However, in the case of heart disease, other medications would also be involved.
Injury
This was Megs after being beaten up by Baby Nay.
Unfortunately this is the most prevalent issue we personally have to deal with on our acre. And mostly it’s due to dogs. Neighbors’ dogs. But we have our chicken first aid kit, which I highly recommend you start putting together. See here for instructions. So far we’ve not had to take any of our birds to the vet due to any predators. We have had to call once for an antibiotic. And that was due to a hawk attack. Thankfully, the hen lived, because of that antibiotic. Although, we have also lost one duck and one guinea when we went on vacation this past spring. Therefore, I want to encourage you that if you’re around and one of your birds gets attacked, your presence alone will likely save that bird. My husband and I usually work together on these issues. He’ll find the bird since he’s outside usually working. Then he’ll get me, and I’ll grab the kit. So, if you find an injured bird,
First, assess the injured bird.
They will be frightened and in pain. Though, hopefully, nothing will be broken, other than skin and feathers.
Next, clean the wound with Vetericyn wound care spray.
Then liberally apply Gentian violet .5% over the wound(s).
Gentian violet is an antiseptic dye used to treat fungal infections of the skin (such as ringworm & athlete’s foot). But it also has some antibacterial effects. For all of our birds who’ve been attacked, this is our first line of defense. And our birds don’t start going crazy, pecking the heck out of those birds with the purple stuff on their wounds. I believe Blu Kote is made of the same thing.
Depending on the injury, you may keep the injured bird isolated from the flock for a couple of days. Or not. It’s entirely up to you.
Most sites would probably recommend isolating the injured bird. However, the only bird we’ve ever isolated was Megatron, when he got his tail feathers kicked by Baby Nay and would’ve died had I not intervened. All of our other injured birds, including Rex (hawk bait), were allowed with the flock. One was going broody anyway, so she secluded herself. We didn’t have to do anything.
Provide fresh feed and fresh, clean water daily. Check their wounds that they’re not getting septic or angry looking; that they’re indeed getting better.
You may need to re-apply the Gentian violet. And if you did isolate your bird, like I did with Megs, then let them back in with the flock. He was and is the boss, so I didn’t have to do anything special. But I let him back in with the flock after a week. Birds have phenomenal memory even with their pecking order. I don’t re-introduce my birds a special way once I’ve taken them out of the group; they know each other already. And they simply don’t care, except for the one who wants to rejoin the group.
In addition, we’ve had birds that have had only feathers out during an attack. But we’ve also had birds that have had skin missing. Though, we haven’t had to deal with bleeding with any of them or their wounds.
So, How do You Tell if a Chicken is Sick
Just like other prey animals that get sick or hurt, chickens will act like everything is ok. And they may hide when ill or in pain. Therefore, it’s vital that you know what your chickens are like, including their mannerisms. Thankfully, though, there are universal signs. Not eating, being tired, lethargic, losing weight, not congregating, coughing, and sneezing are all signs someone, including birds, aren’t feeling too well. And the best prevention for keeping chickens healthy is keeping the coop clean and practicing good biosecurity.
How would you say your birds fare when it comes to illness or health? If they’re pretty healthy, what do you attribute it to? Thank you for visiting. Please share, and if you don’t follow already, you may do so now.
We’re about to head into the season where the days get shorter. Yes, it’s hard to believe it’s almost autumn. But hopefully the weather will cool off. So, this prompts the question, “Do chickens need light in the coop?” This is different from heat and adding a heat source. Strictly speaking, we’re only discussing light. Therefore, we’ll define the roles light serves in the brooder and coop. Plus, go over the pros and cons of adding light to the coop.
According to the University of Maine, the main function of having light in the brooder is for chicks to locate food and water. So, any time you raise chicks, you absolutely need light. Some people choose a 250-watt infrared bulb that will supply both heat and light, while others will provide a heat plate. Thus, if you’re of the latter group, just make sure you have plenty of either natural or artificial light for your chicks. Poultry Extensionrecommends chicks be provided with 48 hours of light post hatch, because it will take that long for them to reach peak sensitivity to spatial details.
Another result of adding artificial light directly to the brooder is exponential growth rate. Try this some time at home when you have a broody hen or hens. Once the hens hatch their chicks, go pick up a couple of day-old chicks, from a breeder or hatchery, and compare their sizes to the ones hatched by the broody hens. Trust me, you’ll be astonished at the difference. You’ll think the ones hatched at home are malnourished. But they’re not. Light, including wavelength, duration, and intensity also affects behavior.
Conversely, the purpose of a light in the coop for adult birds is to keep hens laying for as long as possible. Chickens absorb light through their retinas. However they also sense light through the pineal gland and hypothalamus. The pineal gland is accountable for regulating the circadian rhythm through melatonin. Also, both the hypothalamus and pituitary gland in chickens are responsible for reproduction. In addition, chickens can see more UV light than us. And studies involving light found that different wavelengths affect poultry reproduction.
According to NIH, light stimulus is emitted to the hypothalamus through the back of the eyes. Then it causes the release of GnRH, an important hormone for reproduction. Further, light prompts the production of follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH) and luteinizing hormone (LH), which are responsible for egg production. As a result, adding light not only increases egg production, it sexually matures hens faster.
Given that chicks need light in order to find food and water, and that it takes ~ 48 hours for sensitivity to spatial detail to peak, we won’t go over pros and cons with them. It’s well established that chicks need light.
The main advantage of adding light to your coop is that your hens will lay eggs longer. Chickens require ~ 14 – 16 hours of daylight in order to lay eggs. It’s part of their circadian rhythm. Thus, when the days get shorter, a hen’s retina, pineal gland, and hypothalamus registers the change, causing a decrease in egg production. Other benefits to having a light in the coop include
you can also see in less daylight
Adding light to the chicken coop, when daylight gets below 9 hours daily, gives you the ability to see while doing your chicken chores.
and different wavelengths have distinct positive effects on the birds
For instance, blue light has been noted to improve the health of pullets. Additionally, blue and green lights calm chickens more than red light. Moreover, lights with a sufficient red spectrum (2700K–3000K) are recommended for laying hens.
Reasons not to add a light to the chicken coop mostly involve wavelength, intensity of the light, and duration. For example,
lower spleen percentages were noted in hens exposed to red-LED compared to normal and blue-LED
It was thought that hens exposed to red-LED had a weaker immune system, because they had decreased spleen sizes compared to normal-LED. However, research from Journal of Applied Poultry Research cautions that something else other than red-LED may have manipulated the results.
and Too bright and duration of light can cause stress to the hens
Time and again we’ve discussed that stress of any type affects egg production. And high intensity light makes laying hens more aggressive and nervous. Plus, it induces pecking and cannibalism as does having a constant supply of light. Therefore, there’s no reason to keep a light on for longer than necessary. Your chickens won’t lay more eggs or continue even if you do.
Best Light for the Chicken Coop
You can either place compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFL) or light emitting diodes (LEDs) in your chicken coop. And there are pros and cons to both. However, most sites recommend using LEDs based on cost, carbon footprint, and ease of cleaning. When your coop gets dusty and dirty, just be sure to dust down your LED lights. Read this article for a breakdown of each light bulb.
Best Wavelength, Intensity, and Duration for the Chicken Coop
By Hadis Avidor Goldin
Since you want to simulate daylight in order to continue getting eggs, then the best wavelength is white light. And I’ve read suggested intensity ranges from 15 lux to 30 lux. However, lux are used in countries where the metric system is common, whereas foot-candles are standard in the US. Foot-candles measure lumens at bird level per square foot, while lux is lumens per square meter. So one foot-candle is roughly 10.76 lux. Moreover, according to Poultry Extension, brooder intensity is advised at 2 foot-candles while only 1/2 a foot-candle afterward.
Continue reading to find out how to add light to the chicken coop.
How to Add Light to the Chicken Coop
Provide 1 foot-candle of light (10 lux or 60 watt) per 100 square feet where it will shine on feeders and waterers
You can hang a bulb ~ 7 feet above. However, depending on the size of your coop, a single bulb can create shadows. Thus, an LED strip might be better.
Use a timer
By doing this, you won’t have to get up early to turn the lights on. And if you forget one day, it’ll still be ok, because of the timer.
Start adding artificial light when day length lessens to about 15 hours
And keep lighting your coop through the winter and spring, until daylight is back up to 15 hours a day.
Adding a light to the chicken coop is a question every chicken keeper has to answer for themselves. And it depends on what your purpose is for having chickens. Are they your pets, like a dog and a cat? Or are they a source of income? If they fall into the latter, then you most likely want to add lights. We’ve seen that having a light in the coop doesn’t harm chickens, especially if the intensity and duration is just right.
Do you have a light for your chickens? Other than getting eggs, have you noticed any other changes with the lights? Thanks for stopping by! Please share, and if you don’t already follow me, you can do so now.
In July I wrote an article on how to tell if a chicken egg was fertile. That’s assuming you have a rooster. But what do you do if you have a roo, and all your eggs are unfertilized? What does that mean? Well, it could mean a number of things. Since reproduction depends on both the hen and the rooster, we’ll look at fertility issues in both. After that we’ll explore how to increase fertility in chickens.
Did you know that rooster sperm can be viable inside the hen for 2 to 3 weeks depending on the breed? And the hen can store multiple roosters’ sperm in something called sperm storage tubules (SSTs). Additionally, it’s been said that roosters can mate 10 to 30 times per day. But I think that’s also breed dependent, simply because some breeds can be more aggressive, even romantically.
Reasons for Low Fertility in Roosters: Physical
These types of fertility issues have nothing to do with the chicken farmer or keeper. On the other hand, they’re inherent to the rooster, with him physically or with his mannerisms, such as
roosters with single combs are more fertile in contrast to rose comb and walnut comb roosters. Though pea comb roos have better fertility as well. However they’re still not as fertile as single comb roosters.
Age also affects fertility. According to several articles, the quality of sperm and mating itself declines as roosters age. So the older the rooster, the less fertile he’s going to be. In contrast, the more dominant rooster is also less likely to be as fertile. But he’s the one the gals want to be with. It’s quite the conundrum.
In addition, hens choose the rooster that has the largest comb. Although I’m not sure if that means he’s more fertile or less, since you can find articles supporting both theories.
Roosters that are too docile might have issues getting the deed done. Personally I have some roosters that are docile with us, but they don’t have any problems doing their business with their ladies, especially the young guys.
Additionally, roosters that are too small to mount the hen or hens will have problems copulating.
Molting causes roosters to slow down and rest. But did you know it also reduces sperm production, according NCBI?
Lack of sperm competition and agglutination. For fertilization to occur in many species, sperm need to be moving unhindered. Although sperm agglutination is the opposite of that, because the sperm are literally stuck to each other. Thus, it restrains sperm mobility. However, sperm agglutination in chickens helps fertilization rather than hindering it. You can read the full article in Nature Briefing here.
and If a roo plays favorites with the hens, not all the gals will be serviced. Therefore, that will inevitably lead to fertility issues, just because he’s neglecting some hens.
What Causes Low Fertility in Hens: Functional
Next, we’ll look at low fertility involving hens. And these deal with functional issues just as the previous ones did with the roosters.
Blocked cloaca
Unlike ducks, chickens don’t have appendages. They only have cloacas that briefly touch, often called the cloacal kiss. Thus, if there are too many feathers in the way or the hens have dirty bottoms, sperm will not make it to the egg. Or the cloacas won’t even touch. Therefore, if you have some fluffy butted or dirty bottomed hens, just trim their feathers around the vent area.
Age
In both hens and roosters, age plays a factor in fertility. So, the younger they both are, the more fertile. And the opposite is also true. I told my husband, that if we’re going to keep incubating, we have to do something about our aging flock. Megs is the dominant roo, and his girls are also getting older. Thus, their eggs have very recently been mostly infertile.
Molting
Again, both hens and roosters molt. And it’s a time for the feathers to re-grow and for the birds to rest, which means egg laying will stop for a time.
Sperm storage tubules (SSTs)
There have been multiple studies on hens, how long sperm is stored, and the SSTs. In 2020 it was discovered that too many fatty acids had a negative effect on sperm storage in the female reproductive tract and fertility in general. Another study, mentioned in Nature Briefing, showed that when hens were artificially inseminated with either high or low sperm mobility from various roosters, the sperm from the first roosters ended up fertilizing most of the eggs. Therefore, low mobility sperm can reach the SSTs and still fertilize some eggs. However, as of yet, there are no solid suggestions on how to overturn these issues.
and Cryptic female choice
Hens have the final say in who fathers their offspring. Consequently, to prevent inbreeding where multiple roosters are involved, hens will select the rooster that is not related to them. Also, exosomes are produced in the mucosal tissue of the hen’s vagina which significantly reduce sperm viability if mating is forced. As a result, if the hen doesn’t like the rooster, she has a lot to say about how well things will turn out. And if you’re getting infertile eggs, it could be due to the hen’s preferences.
Reasons for Low Fertility in Both Roosters and Hens: Animal Husbandry
Since these causes of low fertility are the same for both hens and roos, I’m combining them under the same heading. Additionally, most of these issues can be prevented, because they’re management issues and under our direct control.
Breeding for genetic selection
Altering some traits decreases libido and thus, lowers fertility.
Diet
Too much, not enough, starving your birds with a particular diet, or just plain feeding the wrong kind of feed will all cause fertility issues for your chickens.
Not enough daylight
During shorter daylight seasons your birds will not mate as much or be as fertile. For example, hens will lay less eggs during the shorter days of fall and winter.
Chronic illness or injury
Any disease or injury not soon addressed will take its toll on any bird. And if it’s a disease and not taken care of, it can spread to other members of the flock, greatly upsetting fertility.
Crowdingor lack of perching or nesting sites
Space issues could also fall under any kind of stress. Plus, these problems are more evident in commercial flocks than in backyard birds. However, if your birds are crowded, it creates stress and could result in disease, which affects fertility.
Vaccinations
In British Poultry Science, Volume 48, 2007, it was revealed that cockerels vaccinated for infectious bronchitis had reduced fertility.
For the purpose of maintaining a flock, it’s typically 1 rooster per 10 to 12 hens. But for breeders and depending on the breed, you need young, virile roosters. So in some cases it’s recommended 2 roos per 10 to 12 hens. But watch out for the hens’ backs.
Not enough water
Because water is used in most bodily processes, chickens included, it’s essential to all life. Although, if it’s hot out, chickens won’t drink water unless it’s cool and fresh. Therefore, they can quickly get dehydrated, which can affect their health and thus, fertility.
and Stress of any kind
Predators, loud noises, pollution, heat stress and cold stress would all fall under stress of any kind. And they all can affect fertility in one way or another, whether with egg issues in the hen or actual fertilization problems with the rooster.
How to Increase Fertility in Chickens
Given that chicken is a popular food, I wouldn’t be surprised if my lists weren’t exhaustive. It just means that scientists are still trying to crack the code on chicken fertility. But now that I’ve covered some issues both hens and roosters might face regarding infertility, ways to increase fertility include
don’t get rid of your rooster just yet
If your rooster doesn’t happen to have one of the high fertility combs, like single or pea, what do you do? Well, the next question is, how old is he?
add new roosters
Since under 1 year old is viewed as the most fertile age, if your roo is over a year old and doesn’t sport the most fertile style comb, consider getting new roos. Maybe even get one with a single comb. In addition, having different, younger roosters will inspire sperm competition during mating and help with fertility. See sperm competition under roosters.
keep vent areas clean
Make sure hens vent areas aren’t blocked by poo or feathery bottoms.
how old are your hens
Invest in more layers if your hens aren’t laying any more or as much. Don’t just incubate; actually purchase some from a reputable breeder to bring in new genes.
provide commercial breeder feed with essential vitamins, proteins, and minerals
Breeder feed contains slightly more protein than standard layer feed, which improves development and fertility.
add artificial light to your coop during seasonal daylight changes
This is entirely up to you whether you add light to your coop or not. But, when your birds molt, it’s a time for them to rest, recharge, and regrow feathers. Just be sure to feed them appropriately.
practice good biosecurity
Inspect your flock for illness and injury on a regular basis. Moreover, examine the coop for damage and necessary repairs. These are quick assessments, designed to note any possible danger to the flock. Also, don’t allow anyone in the coop, run, or in the flock’s yard who has their own separate flock, or who works with poultry.
make sure each bird has enough space
Whether your chickens are pasture-raised or not determines the amount of space they require. Though most people agree that each bird should have 3 – 4 sq ft in the coop, including plenty of perches and nesting boxes. And the birds need 5 – 10 sq ft each in the run, depending on if they are ever let out to roam. If the chickens are pasture-raised, then at least 108 sq ft per bird is needed for roaming.
provide fresh, clean water daily
Have multiple water stations for your birds. And in the summer heat, fill them with ice to prevent your birds from getting dehydrated.
and lastly, be aware that stress affects fertility
There’s not much you can do about noises or the weather affecting your birds. However pollution that could affect backyard chickens is ammonia from their droppings. Plus, if you can smell it in your coop, then it either indicates a ventilation issue, or it’s past time to clean the coop. Furthermore, in the event you’re taking care of your birds, but there’s extreme heat outside, you’re just not likely to get as many fertilized eggs.
In Conclusion
We know that both hens and roosters share responsibility for fertility. In addition, fertility in both continues to be studied, given that chicken is popular and economical worldwide. Even though chicken infertility has many causes, including functional and management, there are ways to combat it. Feeding your birds the correct feed, providing fresh, clean water daily, and checking them and their houses on a regular basis should be a given. Doing those minimal tasks goes a long way in helping your birds. Despite that, when fertility drops, add more roosters and hens, with the proper ratios.
Have you ever noticed fertility issues with your flock? How did you handle it? I mentioned earlier that Megatron is our dominant rooster. And I’ve also noticed that fertility has dropped. But I can’t help wondering if it’s the heat or a fertility issue. I know that before the younger boys were introduced, Megatron was slowing down with a lot of things. However, he got very busy once they took an interest in his business. Of the 3 adult roosters, Ravage would be considered the cat’s meow. He has the biggest, reddest comb. And he has been graciously accepted into Meg’s flock, whereas Mystogan, Ravage’s brother, has not. Megatron allows Ravage to handle most of the issues in the yard. I suspect most of the chicks we have thus far are Ravage’s offspring and not Meg’s.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post. Please share, and if you don’t already do so, you can follow me now.
Any time we hatch a new chick, duckling, or keet, or maybe get a new cat, fur and feathers get ruffled. No matter the steps and how long we take to introduce a new pet, some type of aggression ensues. And at times it feels like it won’t end. Further, the aggression that occurs at my home is typically intraspecies, which is the same species ganging up on each other. Though, I know others have interspecies aggression. So, I wanted to explore bullying in the animal kingdom.
According to Oxford dictionary, one definition of bully is a person who uses their strength or power to frighten or hurt weaker people. But the legal system doesn’t consider non-human animals as legal persons. Thus, according to the law, backyard birds, dogs, cats, etc are not people. Therefore, our pets can’t be regarded as bullies from these parameters, even though their behavior screams bullying to us.
Nevertheless, if you Google pet bullying, you’ll doubtless find endless examples of exactly this, no matter what the law may say. As a result, it’s apparently quite common among pet parents and animal behaviorists alike to see bullying activity. What is it exactly about these behaviors that look like bullying? Is it normal, and does it serve a purpose. How can we help inter and intraspecies relationships? And do we humans behave the same way?
Why Animals Bully Each Other
A couple of years ago I wrote an article on the chicken pecking order. Even if the term was originally in reference to chickens, most, if not all, animals observe some sort of dominance hierarchy. In biology, dominance hierarchy is basically a ranking system in animal groups. Some animals are more dominant, like the alpha, whereas others are more submissive. Consequently, dominance is one of the major reasons animals bully each other. The dominant animal is effectively trying to reinforce their class system or hierarchy.
For instance, if you follow me on Facebook or Instagram, you might know we have a new kitten named Pickles. Initially my cat, Itty, did NOT like Pickles. At all. And I know why. Pickles is ~ 4 months old, eats Itty’s food, goes into Itty’s room, chases Itty, gets on Itty’s bed, and sits on Itty’s chair. Basically Pickles does NOT respect the hierarchy.
On the other hand, when Itty first came to live with us at 5 weeks old, Cake and Meow Meow, our then resident cats, laid the law down for her. And Itty respected them and the law. Even though Meow is no longer with us, Itty still respects Cake, because she knows her place. However, at the same time, Itty knows she herself is a princess. Pickles is a bottom feeder and should be licking Itty’s paws. But Pickles doesn’t seem to know her kitty place. It appears she doesn’t care about hierarchy; she just does what she does. Moreover, she’s certainly not submissive, and it was annoying the hell out of my cat. So, on various occasions I’d hear noises that sounded like cats killing each other. Thankfully they weren’t actually killing each other. Although, it was Itty, cursing Pickles in meows and caterwauling.
Besides dominance, other reasons animals bully each other include
mating
Several examples of bullying-type behavior exist in the animal kingdom concerning females during mating. For example, male on female bullying during mating. Or it can happen with any other members of the same species just because it’s mating season. Ducks are a prime example of this. Our first drake killed a female due to his crazy hormones during mating season.
boredom
Some animals appear to pick on other animals if they’re stuck together for a bit of time. Think chickens cooped up during inclement weather for days upon days with nothing to occupy them. Alternatively, picture any smart, high energy dog with nothing to do, locked in a small room (or house) with a small, scared pet. An animal in either or both of these situations will pick on or bully another when they have nothing to do, or any way to expend their energy.
illness/injury
Chickens mercilessly abuse sick and injured birds. But there could be cases where an ill, injured, or hurting animal lashes out at other animals. For instance, dogs have been known to attack sick or hurt dogs. And they can also attack if they are sick or injured themselves.
resourceguarding
I’ve mentioned resource guarding before. And generally, bullying in regards to this could be for space, food, water, breeding, etc. An animal is just claiming all of the above as their own, thus, picking on anyone who transgresses.
inadequate early socialization
A lack of early socialization, at least for dogs and cats, can easily turn playtime into a fight.
space/territory
Many animals will attack and pick on other animals, including members of the same species, if there isn’t enough space for everyone.
and stress
Our pets are sensitive to us and their environments. And all of them seem to love routines. (Kinda like us.) Therefore, any changes to their routines can lead to aggression. Be it change in feed, living arrangements, friends, family, schedules, and/or adding or subtracting any other pets all have an effect on them. Not to mention possible life or death situations they may face themselves.
What Does Bullying Look Like in the Animal Kingdom
Now I’ll go through some of the pets I have, and find out what picking on each other might look like in dogs, cats, and chickens.
Signs of Dog Bullying
Being overly pushy with other dogsor with the cats. For example, a bullying dog pushes other dogs out of the way. Or, like at our house, your dog might push the cats or other pets out of the way when they want attention instead of letting anyone else have any.
Doesn’t follow commands once very excited
Playing rough or harassing non-consenting dogs and/or cats
Disrespecting boundaries of other dogs, people, and/or cats
Growling, nipping, biting, and pinning playmates to the ground
Steals food, treats, and/or toys
Ignores signals from other dogs and/or cats
Pesters dogs and/or cats who don’t want to play
“All in your face”
Puts paws on head or shoulders of other dogs most often
and Engages in mounting behavior
Symptoms Your Dog is Bullied
Tucking tail between their legs
Yawning or licking their lips
Hiding or avoiding other dogs
Rolling over in submissive manner
Barking while backing away from another dog
Urinating in inappropriate places/indoors
Your dog is always being chased by another dog but never the one doing the chasing
Always getting mounted
and Getting food, water, and toys stolen
Cat Bullying Signs
Pickles is on the right, just staring at Itty while she looks out the window.
Either passive or overt
Denies access to resources: food and water, litter box, toys, and owners
Blocks access to the best sun spots
Body language of bully: Never backing away, staring, stalking, and emitting low growl when other cat gets close
Lowers head while raising hind end as it approaches other cat
and Pinning the victim to the ground
By contrast, the bullied cat may spend most of the time hiding or away from the family. They also avoid eye contact with their bully and surrender resources to them. In addition, they might crouch in ambush, but then run off when their bully shows up. Furthermore, they’ll have a puffed out tail, flat ears, and hiss as well, especially if their bully gets too close. This is also how a cat reacts to their dog bully.
Chicken Bullying Evidence
This is a picture of Ratchet, a Salmon Faverolle we had around 4 years ago.
Chickens missing feathers
Other chickens pecking at the bullied chicken, removing feathers, and keeping that one from food
Scared chickensor scared ducks
Rooster mounting behaviortoward other species
and Injured chickens
With cats and dogs you might not be sure if they’re playing or being a bully. However, you’ll know in your gut whether or not they’re playing based on the reaction of the other pet. If your cat or dog is bullying, the victim will hide, act scared, or simply not want to be around your bullying pet. But, if it’s simply play, then everyone will enjoy the experience. And they’ll hang out and cuddle together. Trust me, you’ll just know. In addition, according to this article from Care.com, if one cat starts the aggressive act more, and there’s growling and hissing, then in all probability it’s fighting. Basically it’s similar to one dog always doing the chasing while the other is being chased.
On the other hand, chickens are different. No chicken enjoys being pecked or having aggressive acts directed at them. Those birds will either just walk away. Or, if they’re a victim of actual bullying, they will hide. Chickens peck each other, particularly those higher up in the hierarchy, though it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re bullying. They’re just reenforcing their pecking order. And sometimes they’re constantly reenforcing it. Take, for example, the 4 different generations of roosters we have: we have the boss, Megatron, Ravage, the 2nd oldest, Mystogan, his younger brother, and now we have a juvenile roo. Megs runs a tight ship keeping all of those boys in their places. In similar manner, Ravage keeps Mystogan in his place while Mystogan pecks at and runs after the juvenile. And the juvenile roo harries all the other babies. It looks like bullying, but it isn’t really. Since none of the antagonists continue to harass the others, it’s just normal chicken pecking and enforcing of their hierarchy.
Now you may be scratching your head on theroostermounting behavior one. That’s what Ravage did when we had over 10 roos in our flock at one time. He mounted Squirt, the drake. At first I was wondering if he was actually trying to mate with the drake. But then I figured he didn’t have his spurs yet. So he had to be exerting some sort of dominance out of frustration for space issues and females. Well, after we slaughtered the extra roos, Ravage calmed down. Although, the drake still gives Ravage a wide berth. And the roo now has started mounting Bakugo, our Pekin. Though, I’m not sure if he’s trying to mate her due to stupidity, or if he’s still acting out of dominance.
Stopping a Bully Dog at Home
If, after getting this far, you realize, like me, that your dog could be a bully, don’t worry, because there are solutions. Trust me, I know what you’re thinking. At first, you didn’t want to admit your dog might be mean and pick on anyone else. But then, the more you thought about it, the more you just couldn’t ignore the signs. Although, the first thing to do for your bullying dog is to spay or neuter them if they’re still intact, which Sophie most definitely is. (Her surgery is scheduled for September.) Aside from fixing your dog, you can
put the bully in time-out
With a negative marker before bullying gets too far, your dog will eventually make the connection between what they’re doing and why they’re in time-out. For instance, when you want your dog to do something else, use a word or sound, like the word no.
be picky about who your bully plays with
Choose dogs to hang out with your dog that can handle and actually enjoy your dog and their pushy behavior.
intervene as necessary
Using positive interrupters before any bullying occurs, this will replace time-outs when your dog is learning better behavior. A positive marker would be something like the word yes.
find a trainer with a really good, patient teaching dog
This type of dog can put up with your dog and effectively communicate with them.
teach impulse control in the house
For example, if you’re paying attention to one pet in your house, and your bully pushes in between, ignore the bully and move away. Don’t reinforce bullying behaviors with attention. Rather train your bully dog to sit and wait his turn. And do the same with treats. But reward your non-bully pet with treats first, assuming they’re not a resource guarder.
and make sure exercise and mental stimulation demands are met
I truly think that’s what’s going on with Sophie. She requires so much due to her breed, that she gets bored at times, especially if it’s been rainy or extremely hot that we forego our outside fun. But if she does get exercised, she really does do better with the cats.
Curbing the Cat Bully
Just as with dogs, the first and best way to put an end to the bullying cat is to spay and neuter the offender, if they’re still intact. However, if they’re already fixed, try the following:
Don’t assume cats will work it out
They won’t, because they’re not people. Cats will continue to fight if they perceive a threat to their resources. But don’t get in the middle of their fight either. You don’t want to get hurt. Rather, the best option is to make a loud noise to distract them.
Also, don’t separate the resources
Instead of separating all of the resources, see where the cats prefer to congregate. Then make sure there are plenty of resources for all of them. That way the bully has a choice and won’t feel threatened.
Make playtime the same time everyday
Because cats are so schedule-oriented, keep playtime on a schedule as well.
Play at least 15 minutes with each cat per day
Further, cats get bored easily, so be sure to cycle through the toys. And the more you can play with each cat, the better.
Get pheromone diffusers for every room the cats spend together in
I asked our vet about the issue the cats were having, and he recommended the diffusers.
If there’s still bullying, see the veterinarian
Your cat might have a health issue that the vet can rule out. Or they can refer you to a pet behaviorist to help out.
Re-introduce cats that need to be separate
If cats are at-risk of hurting each other, separating for short-term is a good idea. Flying fur, bloodshed, or urine are all signs a cat’s in danger. And if it’s occurring every time the cats see each other, they need to be separated. And then re-introduce them as if they never met. Jackson Galaxy recommends re-introducing fighting cats with food. You can find the article here.
Ending Chicken Bullying
This box serves as a time-out and broody box, depending on the situation.
Unlike cats and dogs, chickens don’t get spayed or neutered. Though, you can
make sure your chickens have enough space
Inside the coop, each chicken needs approximately 4 sq ft, while they need around 10 sq ft each in the run. But that’s assuming they stay cooped up all the time. If they get to go out, they can have 5-10 sq ft each in the run.
have the proper ratio of hens to roos
If you have roosters, be sure to have at least 10 hens per rooster. Otherwise, as I’ve pointed out elsewhere, the roosters will tear up the hens’ backs.
provide enough feed and water stations
I can’t tell you how many feed and watering areas I have. It seems like each bird wants her own, the prima donnas.
and if bullying continues, separate the bully for a couple of days
Since their pecking order is all important to them, you want to separate the bully from the flock for a few days. Once the bully is back with the group, sometimes they have to re-establish the pecking order. Thus, it’s better for the bullied hen or roo.
In order to have a comparison with the previous sections, the last animal I’m going to cover is the human child. Therefore, some signs a child is bullied include
bruises, cuts, and scratches
torn clothes
missing property
poor eating or sleeping
bed wetting
complaints of headaches or stomachaches
changes in the child’s mood: sad, anxious, upset, unhappy, or angry
spending time alone or doesn’t want to go out or to school
having trouble with schoolwork
and/or withdrawn
As you can see from the bullied human indicators, they reflect a combination of all of the bullied animal signs. However, reasons people bully aren’t exactly the same as animal bullying. According to a study by Ditch the Label, people are more likely to bully if they’ve suffered stress and trauma. To me that sounded like cats and chickens. If they perceive their resources are threatened, they’ll fight and generally have conflict. Additionally, according to the same study, 66% were male.
Compared to my pet household, which are mostly female, it doesn’t track. But, in the wild animal kingdom, bullying is more male dominant. Further, I didn’t include guineas in this post, which are true bullies in the yard. Every single male guinea is a bully for no reason that I can fathom, irrespective of species. Plus, it can’t have anything to do with the pecking order, given that chickens, ducks, and guineas aren’t the same species. And they don’t interact with each other, except when the male guinea attacks the other species.
In Summary
Maybe bullying serves a purpose in the animal kingdom, particularly in the wild. Nevertheless, living as we do with our pets, often in close proximity, we can’t afford to just let them be. Since allowing them to figure it out would be risking them injury. Regardless of our personal feelings toward animals, that would be costly at the very best, and inhumane at the worst. Consequently, it’s in everyone’s best interest to find out quickly why a pet is getting picked on and remedy it.
I’m happy to report that Itty and Pickles never had any bloodshed with their differences. They would both take turns chasing each other. Though there would be growling, screaming, and hissing. Itty would puff up so big to warn Pickles, who just ignored her signals. Moreover, they would both smack each other. However, their claws were evidently sheathed, since no one got injured. Regardless, currently they’re having less noisy days than before. They still chase each other, but it resembles play now more than ever. We got pheromone diffusers, gave equal attention to both of them, and rewarded play time.
Do you have any experiences where one pet bullies another one? How did you handle it?
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Over a year ago I wrote an article on incubating chicken eggs. And in that post, I explained how to know if an egg is fertilized during incubation. But how do you tell if a chicken egg is fertilized once cracked? And can you tell before the egg is cracked? I’ll answer these questions, and hopefully toss out some tales.
If I had a dollar each time someone asked me if store eggs were fertilized, I’d be rich. The answer is no for many reasons: pasteurization and refrigeration. Also, of course, most store bought eggs come from caged hens, which wouldn’t even have access to roosters. If by some miracle an egg was fertilized, pasteurization and refrigeration would quickly nullify any developing chick.
Eggs don’t have baby chicks in them even if they’re fertilized. Since the conditions are so specific for a chick to develop, a carton of fertilized eggs will never be more than eggs once refrigerated. It is only when the precise conditions for temperature and humidity are met that a chick embryo begins developing.
How do You Tell if a Chicken Egg is Fertilized: 1st Method
Cracking the Egg
Unfertilized egg
So, store bought eggs are NOT fertile. However, if you have a flock with a rooster or multiple roosters, chances are high the eggs are fertilized. Although, sometimes roos can have favorite hens. Therefore, in those cases, some hens might get neglected. We used to have a Rhode Island Red named Jango, and all the boys liked her. She was the lone redhead in a sea of black Ameraucana hens. But now she’s gone. Thus, the young boys are now going after the lighter colored ‘Caunas. In cases where you know the boys play favorites, check for fertility by cracking open some eggs.
Fertilized egg
Fertile and non-fertile eggs all look the same on the exterior. Though, on the interior, an unfertilized egg will have a tiny, white dot on the yolk called the germinal disc. If it never gets fertilized, it’s called a blastodisc, while a fertilized one will look like a bull’s eye, called a blastoderm. So, if you crack open some eggs and notice some fertility issues, but want to increase your flock size, you can add another rooster.
Caveats to Adding Another Roo for Fertility
You can see we have 4 of 8 eggs that were fertilized in this picture, while I have no idea about the busted one.
Just because you see evidence of low fertility in your flock doesn’t necessarily mean your rooster is the problem. It is estimated that hens eject ~ 80% of sperm from undesirable roosters. As you’ll recall, this is not unlike what ducks do with drakes. Therefore, getting another roo might help. But it might not. Your hens could very well be finicky creatures. And they might want to stay single the rest of their days. Who knows?
How do You Tell if a Chicken Egg is Fertilized: 2nd Method
Candling Eggs
This method of checking for egg fertilization only works once incubation has already started. Thus, this means, you either have a broody hen with a clutch of eggs under her. Or you have some eggs in an incubator. Though, in order to see anything via candling, it needs to be at least day 4 of incubation. This is the only way to determine fertilization without cracking the egg. Candling will not show you a blastoderm or germinal disc. Consequently, what candling reveals is a developing chick, albeit in a red, spidery blob by day 4. Or it may show you nothing, that indeed the egg is a dud and not fertilized at all. But, if the egg is fertilized, and you see a spidery blob, then, as time goes by, the spidery blob will get more distinct.
You candle an egg by first, having an egg that’s been incubated by a broody hen or incubator for at least 4 days. Next, go to a completely dark room with a very small diameter, but very bright flashlight. Then carefully place the egg over the light. And if it’s fertilized and viable, you’ll see spidery veining from the center of the egg. But, if not, there will be nothing except egg. Although, if you have a blue, green, or dark brown egg, you might not see anything. Those eggshells can be difficult to see through.
Yes, absolutely, you can eat fertilized eggs. And they are perfectly safe to eat as well, so long as you’ve cooked them properly.
Also, I have had people ask me about blood spots and the white stringy parts of the egg, thinking the eggs were fertilized. But neither indicate fertilization. A red spot is usually just a blood spot, indicating a hen ruptured a blood vessel. And the white stringy stuff are called chalazae. They hold the yolk in place. And the more prominent they are, the fresher the egg. Moreover, both are also entirely safe to eat.
Will the Eggs I Buy Turn into Chicks
This was our miracle chick, who ended up being a rooster. So, sadly, he’s no longer with us.
The eggs you buy at the store won’t develop into chicks. Even if you purchase eggs from a backyard chicken hobbyist, that isn’t likely, unless you keep your house abnormally warm. However, to allay any concerns, just refrigerate the eggs.
Nevertheless, for a backyard chicken egg to develop into a recognizable chick, or even embryo, would be an extremely rare event. Either you’d have to place the egg under an animal to keep the ideal temperature and humidity. Or you’d need to have an event similar to mine last year. Though, our miracle chick was in the coop with hens for the recommended 3 weeks. And he had 2 broody moms. Even though the dingbats neglected him post-hatch.
Our miracle chick occurred, but we knew there was a fertilized egg in the coop. And we were hoping to get a chick. That he hatched at all was the real miracle based on the mothers he had. If something similar were to happen on your counter, I would question how warm your kitchen was. I would love to find a percentage of how often this sort of thing actually happens, like what happened to us. However, I don’t have that kind of time. Suffice it to say, it’s probably rare. Baby making for any animal is a miracle.
This is all good and well when living in the US. Though, if you live in Europe, you might discover something different. There have been a few reports of people trying TikTok trends. And lo and behold, now they have ducks. What about that? I thought you said it wasn’t possible. Well, it isn’t likely here in the US, since factory farms pasteurize the eggs.
But Europe is a different matter entirely. European egg producers don’t wash their eggs, because they want to leave the bloom intact. However, to protect against Salmonella, they directly treat the chickens, whereas US egg producers pasteurize and clean the eggs. Both are treating the same issue, just in different ways. Therefore, for people living in Europe, eggs are not refrigerated. Rather, they are stored at room temperature, like bread. So, it is quite possible for chicks or ducklings to begin developing if the right circumstances are reached. The only stories I have heard about chick or duck development from store eggs originated in Europe, not the US. And the people that the developed birds happened to, wanted and incubated the eggs themselves. Thus, they weren’t some surprising events that occurred when those people decided to eat eggs.
Summary
Now you know grocery store eggs aren’t fertilized, unless you live outside the US. And if you buy farm eggs, it would still take a ton of effort to hatch any chicks. It just wouldn’t happen by chance. I hope this cleared up any misconceptions you might’ve had. Also, in case you want to know how eggs get fertilized, check this out. What was something you always heard about eggs that has been debunked?
As always, thank you for taking the time to read my posts. Please share, and if you don’t already follow, you can do so now.
Many of you know that I was going to take my pets on vacation last week. In fact, we went to South Dakota with our dog and cat. And just like last year, I’m going to share some highlights of this trip. The plan was to pick up the rental car Tuesday night around 5pm. But, unfortunately, the rental car company changed the time to 7pm. Sarah has martial arts Mondays and Tuesdays. So, by the time her class was done, and we picked up the car, it was ~ 8pm when we got home. Thus, it was too late to get Itty and Sophie accustomed to a different vehicle.
It would have been nice to let our fur babies explore the rental car. Though, that wasn’t an option. Therefore, when we left early last Wednesday morning, they were both super anxious. So, I pulled out all the guns: ThunderJackets, calming chews, Rescue Remedy, etc. However, nothing was helping. Sophie was barking non-stop, while trembling Itty was crawling over everything incessantly. We were maybe 30 minutes to an hour into our drive when we administered the sedatives to them both.
This is after the sedatives took effect.
The sedatives took around half an hour to kick in. Although, after that, the drive was more peaceful for everybody. However, our pets weren’t completely knocked out, which was great. Sophie and Itty were simply much calmer and more relaxed. Regardless, every time we’d pull in to get gas or stop for food, Sophie would still bark. And then Itty would get up to look around. Nevertheless, I haven’t been able to cuddle my kitty so much since she was an itty bitty kitten. I have to admit, it was really special.
The medicine wore off after ~ 12 hours for both Itty and Sophie. Though, we didn’t bother giving them anymore. We just carried on, because there were only a few hours remaining till we made it to our destination. With all the potty breaks and snacks, it took 15-16 hours total to arrive in Hill City. Plus, Itty and Sophie didn’t get sick. However, I didn’t feel that great. I hypothesize it was a combination of sitting in the back, being a bumpy drive, and also the winding roads.
Our Airbnb was a cozy 2 bedroom 1 bath basement rental on 8 acres. Unfortunately it rained the entire time we were there. Thus, we didn’t get to do any hiking. And yes, I said 1 bathroom for 5 people. Yes, somehow we survived.
Regrettably, it had been wet, gray, and cool our entire stay. As a result, the conditions were definitely not ideal to take Itty and Sophie on any outings. Pets aside, we visited Mount Rushmore in Keystone. And did a lot of shopping in Custer in the rain. Plus, we had wonderful food everywhere we went. In addition, we even toured a museum in Hill City. But the best part of this vacation was getting to spend time with my daughter, Rebekah.
I wouldn’t say Sophie and Itty were exactly comfortable in this home away from home setting. Sophie kept trying to simultaneously herd us and play with us. And after Itty smelled her surroundings, she mainly stayed hidden the whole time. Therefore, my thoughts never strayed too far from them. But especially so when we had to leave them in the Airbnb. I tried not worry, though it was difficult.
This is when they were much younger.
For those of you new to my blog, you may be wondering why we don’t just board them. Or you might be asking why we brought them in the first place. When we had our last dog, Moses, we could, and did board him. Also, due to his temperament, our neighbors could watch him. Hence, he was never an issue to leave at home. Although, now we have around 40 birds, 2 cats, and a dog. But both Itty and Sophie were abandoned as babies. That’s how they came to us as well. As a result, they have major separation anxiety. While Sophie doesn’t like being separated from any of us, Itty has separation anxiety only with me. On account of this, we simply don’t board them.
Additionally, most of our neighbors are much older than Paul and me. Plus, there aren’t any kids older than Sarah; she’s 12. Otherwise I could hire a teenager to help out. Regardless, Itty got locked in a bedroom for 3 days without food, water, and her litter box last year. Furthermore, our neighbor who watched them last year, who also took care of our birds and Cake this time, fell and had to go to the ER twice. Thankfully, he didn’t fall at our house. And it was unrelated to us completely. Other than having to get stitches, he’s doing well. Though, for a time, our birds and Cake were on their own. FYI, the reason we didn’t take Cake with us is because she detests all other animals. She doesn’t mind people. In fact, she loves the people. But put her around another animal, and she’ll start a fight.
Given that we had another 15-16 hour drive back, we left at 6am Sunday morning. Prior to loading the car, we dispensed the sedatives to our fur babies. No use going through the struggle, only to have to do it anyway. Sadly, the ThunderJackets didn’t help. The Rescue Remedy did, but only in conjunction with the sedatives. Hopefully, over time, the Rescue Remedy will be enough on its own. However, the drive back was much better than the drive to South Dakota. And once we walked in the door of our house, both Sophie and Itty were totally at peace.
During our vacation, we were kept abreast of the home weather situation via our neighbors. As many of you know, we live in Oklahoma, tornado headquarters. Though, the last tornado to hit Blanchard was in 2011. Nevertheless, the homes in our neighborhood are ~30 years old or older. Despite this, there was still a ton of water. For instance, our coop was flooded. And that’s never happened. Plus, we lost a duck. We don’t know if she died; she’s just gone. Although, everyone else is accounted for.
So proud of my kids!
All in all we had a good time in South Dakota. We enjoyed visiting with family and seeing cool places. And I would love to say it wasn’t stressful at all with Sophie and Itty. But I would be lying. It just shows me we need to do more conditioning with them both. And we’ll do that by taking them on more short car trips till we build up to longer ones. Though, there is a silver lining to all of the stress on both parts. I feel like Itty and I are closer than we were before. For example, she sleeps closer to me than she did before, even during naps. Moreover, Paul feels like he and Sophie have a stronger bond than before. I know our pets were anxious about the trip, because I could see it in their behaviors. But I also know that they would much rather be with us than be left on their own.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. I hope you enjoyed it. Do you take your fur baby on vacation with you? Or do you have someone you trust to watch them? Any advice on taking pets on vacation? I’d love it if you shared. I told my husband that the next vacation I wanted it to just be him and me; that the kids could watch all the pets. Plus, I’d love to go somewhere warmer. Maybe another beach trip. Please share this post. And if you don’t already, you can follow now. Thanks again!
After caring for backyard chickens for several years, you see many strange behaviors. While some are funny, others are relatable. For example, if your coop is like ours, every bird has its own space. So, why do chickens huddle together?
Sometimes things like that, I mark off to them being weird. For example, hens notoriously prefer to all lay eggs in the same nest. As I said, weird. However, in the case of huddling, there are actual reasons for this behavior. Thus, keep reading below to find out why they huddle.
Reasons Why Chickens Huddle
Digital Art, Courtesy of Sarah Smith
Cold weather
Just as people huddle close to others when cold, chickens also do the same. It’s instinctual for self preservation.
Predator attacks
Another time your backyard birds will huddle together is when they’re under attack. Be it a dog that got loose, or an overhead aerial attack, they’ll likely flock to the coop and huddle together.
Roosting issues
Not having enough roosts will cause your chickens to huddle. Additionally, either having roosts that are too high or uncomfortable will also result in birds huddling together. But it won’t be because they want to; it’s due to having no other choice.
Chicks or juveniles
If you have chicks, and they’re huddling, it’s possibly due to low temperatures. And they are cold. Juvenile chickens will huddle in the coop if they can’t reach the roost yet. Although, they also could be cold.
and Illness and parasites
Furthermore, illness and parasites can cause chickens to huddle as well. For instance, coccidiosis is a protozoan parasite that can affect many animals. Though, in chickens, one of the signs is ruffled feathers or huddling. And Pullorum disease in chickens usually affects younger birds, ie chicks. But huddling is also one of the symptoms.
Can Chickens Suffocate
Both adults and chicks can suffocate if and when conditions are right: a lot of birds piling on top of each other. However, in chicks, disease and low temperatures still tend to be the number one reasons for early chick mortality, even if they aren’t piling on top of each other.
Below you’ll find advice for each chick and chicken huddling situation.
If it’s cold out, be sure to have the coop insulated. And use the deep litter method for natural heat in the coop. Also, provide plenty of feed. Plus, give your birds scratch grains to warm them from the inside as well.
Check on your chickens
Pasture-raised birds will huddle together in fear. Thus, if your biddies are in the coop huddling, then either a predator scared them. Or a flock member was attacked. So, examine your chickens. Plus, do a head count. If all are well and accounted for, then look for their source of fear. Again, it could be a neighbor’s dog, a hawk, or a snake. Those are the predators where I live. Where you live, they could be different.
Provide roosts
In case your chooks are huddling due to roosting problems, then supply enough perches for them. Additionally, make sure the perches are comfortable. For example, wood is the best material for a roost. However, material isn’t the only concern. Height is one as well. How high and low the roosts are also need to be considered. Check this site out for more details.
Adjust brooder temperature
When raising chicks, you can easily tell whether they are hot or cold. If they’re hot, they will pant and hold their wings out. And they’ll get as far from the heat source as they can. But if they’re cold, chicks will huddle together under the light for warmth. Thus, you can adjust the height and position of the light, depending on their needs.
For juvenile birds who can’t reach the perch, try lowering it.
Practice good biosecurity
Digital Sketch, Courtesy of Sarah Smith
So, if you have chicks that are sick and huddling due to the parasite coccidia, give them Corid. And as the chicks are exposed to the flock, by the time they reach maturity, they will have developed immunity. Though, if you aren’t practicing good biosecurity, you can bring coccidia from another flock to your own. Therefore, your birds can get sick and vice versa. Also, don’t leave food on the ground for your birds.
There is no known treatment for pullorum besides euthanasia. Thus, purchase chicks and birds from NPIP certified hatcheries to be on the safe side.
Why Chickens Huddle Together
We learned that chickens huddle together for several reasons. And none of them should we ignore. Or at the very least, we should check on our birds, to make sure they’re ok. Because a predator could’ve scared them. Or they could be cold. Although, they could also be dealing with a sickness as well. But, the main point is, huddling is definitely something to watch until you know the cause. Do your chickens huddle? What was the reason? And what did you do to help them?
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Maurice Pitesky
Chicken Girl 